Thailand Footprint: The People, Things, Literature, and Music of Thailand and the Region

Posts from the ‘Bangkok’ category

Wat Phra Non Chak Si Worawihan

Wat Phra Non Chak Si Worawihan

TF Eric, I am pleased to welcome you here at Thailand Footprint. I have just spent the last 30 minutes looking at a file of your photographs and I came away thoroughly impressed. The hardest part of this interview, I can already tell, will be selecting the 12 photographs I plan to run. I also have many questions for you, so here goes: Tell me about your interest in photography. How it started. How long you have been doing it. Has it been an avocation, a vocation or both?

Spirit House

Spirit House

EN Thank you Kevin, I’m excited to talk with you today.

My interest in photography came from an odd place. As a kid, I was an avid malacologist, i.e. collector and studier of specimen sea shells and the animals in them, buying from dealers all over the world. I wanted to do a slide presentation using the specimens I had in my collection at the time. My dad had a 35mm camera and tripod so I did a simple setup and photographed them. My interest in photography grew and the relationship between photography and shell collecting was a symbiotic one for a time till photography became my main interest. I no longer collect, and haven’t for over 40 years as the ocean needs all it’s animals intact, but I still have an extensive collection.

Photography has been both a vocation and an avocation, but for the last 30 years it’s mainly been a vocation and I’ve worked in many parts of the photo industry from commercial labs to photo journalism to studio, location, and stock photography and lastly owning and operating a custom B&W lab service in Chicago for 21 years, Archival Custom Printing- (ACP).

Barber with Mother at shop

Bangkok barber and mom at shop

TF  I was particularly struck by your photographs of Thailand and neighboring countries. I’d like to focus on three: Thailand; Myanmar and Cambodia. How are they similar and how are they different? How much time have you spent in Myanmar vs Cambodia?

Buddhists Monks proceed in Myanmar

Buddhists Monks proceed in Myanmar 

EN Of the 3 places you asked about, Myanmar is the most different from Thailand.  I don’t speak a word of Burmese but my Thai and English got me by somewhat.  People will smile back at you here in Thailand but in Myanmar they don’t.  They seemed more serious in some respects, seemed being the operative word there.
There’s something about the light there that’s different than Cambodia and Thailand.  Just like how in a place like New Mexico where the light has always been lauded, Myanmar’s light is somehow different than other SEA countries.  I liked shooting there a lot, but my trip was pretty short and insulated to make any more specific comparisons.  I’ve spent a total of 2 weeks in Cambodia at this point.
Cambodia’s light seemed a bit harsh even in the morning with haze, but mornings and evenings here in Thailand are great for shooting.  By getting shots with “window” light such as in the noodle shop image, one can escape the harsh look of midday sun here.
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Noddle shop located on Sukhumvit 101

Noodle shop located on Sukhumvit 101

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TF Tell me about Chicago, where you lived for many years, from a photographer’s perspective?
EN When I was in Chicago, the city became old and ugly to me and uninteresting photographically.  Many others will disagree and that’s great as there are photo opportunities there for those who can see them.  I just could not.  I think that can happen if you live somewhere too long.  I’ve always traveled to SEA just to shoot; for myself and for stock photography.  I’ve always been drawn to Asia with my camera.  5 months of the year in Chicago is inhospitable for shooting outside whether it be rain, snow or the cold.  I did a lot of studio shooting during my time there.
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Fisherman's Canal - Chicago

Michael Moore lookalike at Fisherman’s Canal – Chicago

TF  What is it about Bangkok that makes it such a fertile place to take photographs – how would you explain it? Help  others understand what makes it so great?

EN The key, I believe, is to get out each day, and see things with new eyes, like one newly arrived.  I don’t believe it is a bad thing at all as it keeps your vision fresh and one’s self interested.

Bangkok and Thailand for that matter is a great shooting destination.  Personally, I’m not that interested in shooting well known spots. One should go to the Grand Palace and so on once in their life for sure, but I’ve no inclination to return to well known “family vacation” destinations for my photography.  I find that almost any street here will do nicely.  There will be someone or something one can shoot.  People here are genuinely cooperative if not downright happy when I ask to take their photograph.  All one has to do is just go for a walk in your neighborhood and you’ll find fascinating things to shoot.  I’ve just moved to a new neighborhood and I’m looking forward to getting out and shooting here as there’s a large Muslim population and diverse groups of people living all around me.

Modes of transport here also fascinate me.  The boats and motocy taxis aren’t found in the US and where we have them (specifically boats) they are not utilitarian and geared more often to tourists.  In S.E.A. it’s just another way to get around and I love it.  I don’t drive here and hate even being a passenger in a car here.  I much prefer any other method to get places if it’s safe.  Those are opportunities to see the streets  and life in general in a different way instead of in an air con car w/tinted windows.  That and the fear-inducing traffic and driving styles here makes the trains and boats and walking much more appealing to me.
I try to keep myself open to as many subjects as possible whether it be people, places or things.  I do enjoy photographing people as there are some unique looks folks have here and in other countries in S.E.A.  People are much more approachable here than in the US where they don’t have time to stop for you or are just suspicious or irascible in general.
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Motorcy Taxi Drivers near BTS Stop

Bangkok Motorcy Taxi Drivers near BTS Stop

TF How has the digital age impacted your profession, both positively and negatively?

EN My lab, ACP was where I was negatively affected by the change to digital.  I had many clients up until the day I closed my doors who were trying to keep film alive, not just for it’s own sake but because it’s the way they liked to work and they preferred the look film gave them.
One day back in Chicago, I needed a cheap digital print and I uploaded the file to Walgreens, the national drug store chain, and within 15 minutes I got an email saying the print was ready at the store around the corner from me.  At that point I knew I could never compete with digital as handmade analog printing and processing takes time, and fewer and fewer people were willing to wait anymore.
I began offering drum scanning, digital-to-B&W film conversions via a 4×5 film recorder, and custom archival ink jet (digital) prints on rag paper, but even the cachet of the custom hands on printing and scanning was not enough to bring in a large volume of work as many photographers are making those prints and scans in their own studios, and others are just sending their work to Walgreens or the like as the quality isn’t that important for a lot of work.  Also the need to go to print at all, all but disappeared in advertising and commercial photography.
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Siem Reap, Cambodia

Siem Reap, Cambodia

TF What is the best photographing advice you have ever received?

Bicyclist in Cambodia

Bicyclist in Cambodia

EN Best photographic advice is my own as well, which is to keep shooting.  Whatever it is you want to shoot, whether film or digital, just keep at it.

Buddhist Funeral

Buddhist Funeral

TF Do you have any projects in the works? What is your ideal photographing assignment? Do you prefer freelance work over model shoots or is it a balance that you strive for?
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EN I have two teaching projects in their early stages right now both requiring my darkroom + digital.  The first is to teach some folks here how to do wet plate photography.  The major stumbling block I’ve run into there is the chemistry.  Shipping from my suppliers in the US is very expensive and it’s arrival is iffy at best.  One supplier told me of a shipment he made to Singapore that took 3 months to arrive.  So I’m in search of companies that have the needed chemistry here in Thailand.
The other project is to teach alternative photo printing techniques such as cyanotypes or salted paper, using negatives made with a digital printer.  These historical processes require the negative to be the size of the image you want as the negatives are printed in contact with the paper.  Working from scans or digital files to print onto overhead transparency material allows one to easily make these large negatives.
Actually still life and product shoots interest me more than model shoots as those depend heavily on the talent and support people such as hair and make up.  I enjoy model shoots for a sideline as I can do pretty much whatever I want.
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Bangkok Shophouse

Bangkok Shop House

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TF If you had not been a professional photographer, can you imagine what other profession, in the arts, you might have liked to try?

EN I’m really at a loss to think of any profession other than photography!

Bangkok photographer Eric nelson arrives at the scene of a crime ... or perhaps he was already there?

Bangkok photographer Eric Nelson ponders what other profession he might enjoy as much as photography … detective, perhaps?

TF Thank-you, Eric for sharing your pictures and thoughts on photography at Thailand Footprint. Continued success to you in the great city of Bangkok, Thailand.

EN My pleasure, Kevin. I enjoyed it.

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You can reach Bangkok based photographer Eric Nelson at his email address: Eric Nelson <emanphoto@ameritech[dot]net for information about his photographs and services or at the links below:

Eric Nelson Photography
086 343 1612
Powerpoint Portfolio Download: http://share.cx.com/zHf94N
PDF Portfolio Download: http://share.cx.com/B9CyY6
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HEMINGWAY'S
Hemingway’s Outdoor Patio View
HemingwaysBangkokFront Hemingway’s Front Entrance View

Yesterday afternoon and evening I had my first opportunity to check out Hemingway’s Drinking & Dining Establishment in Bangkok on Sukhumvit 14 when I met two friends for drinks and food. It is a wonderful establishment, converted into a large house with a long and colorful history. Almost as colorful as the history of author, Ernest Hemingway, whom the restaurant is named after, which includes multiple bars and event rooms. Before my friends arrived I met the General Manager, Damian Mackay; he hails from Australia and the owner, Craig Bianchini from my home country of the USA. They were both hospitable, informative and happy to share details about the history of the place, which opened fairly recently. Rather than recap what other’s have already written better than I could, find here the link to the well done web site about the eating and drinking venue: http://www.hemingwaysbangkok.com/ Bangkok 101 also wrote an excellent review, which I encourage people to Google if they would like more information.

The ambiance is great, taking many features from Hemingway’s Key West, Florida home, the drinks are great, happy hour is 3:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m., which included the time we were there. The food we sampled was all good and the prices, even outside of Happy Hour are reasonable for what you get. They’ve also done a nice job of pairing snacks with drinks in a combo pricing deal. By all means, check out Hemingway’s on Sukhumvit Soi 14 if you are in the area. It is well worth seeking out the destination. I wish Craig and Damian much success.

Leave a comment

Recently, there was a video making the rounds of the social networking sites. Its title, NEVER GO TO THAIILAND, with a subtitle of Worst Vacation Ever. The quality of the video is highly professional.  A lot of people were choosing to comment without actually viewing the video – making incorrect assumptions, as we all do in life at times. Not surprising, given that we live in a society that has book reviews written by people who never actually read the book. Why let the small details of living a good life get in the way of our desired end result? The video is worth a look, if you have the time, if not, it’s okay.

http://vimeo.com/61561546

The video title is tongue in cheek. The video itself is the antithesis of the title – at least for most people, I would hope. It shows all the many and varied good things about a country I have spent over half my time in, since 2001.

It got me thinking about why I like Thailand. Why I even love it, warts and all. And make no mistake, we are talking about one ugly, wart covered frog, living in a cracked, upside down coconut shell, in the dark, at times. Life may be a beach but in Thailand, murders happen on those beaches, rapes happen on those beaches, yachts are pirated and people are kidnapped not far from those beaches. Tsunami’s even happen on those beaches.

I’ve always believed, whether it is in business or in life, that little things matter. Little things add up to great sums over time.

A jug fills drop by drop.- Buddha

And just as a jug will indisputably fill one drop at a time our lives are filled up one moment at a time. The one common denominator we all share is that we know we are going to die. Unlike the happy and content dog that has no idea he’s being measured for a grave, we humans do. We know we may have a choice between ashes or Mahogany, small, medium or extra large containers but we will all die, one day.

I came to Thailand to die. I needed to be surprised. I wanted to be shocked. Bangkok is unpredictable and it delivers if you give it a chance. Even the small adventures are memorable. – Stirling Silliphant

Bangkok Babylon
The above quote by Oscar winning Hollywood television and screenplay writer, Stirling Silliphant, is from the excellent book by Jerry Hopkins titled, BANGKOK BABYLON -The Real Life Exploits of Bangkok’s Legendary Expatriates in the short story, THE OSCAR WINNER. If you want to look at one of the most impressive writing resumes, ever, go to Stirling Silliphants Wikipedia page. If Bangkok was good enough for Stirling, a man that could choose to live anywhere in the world, it sure seems like a great choice for this former Auburn, California boy. Among the advice one receives from reading Jerry Hopkin’s book is the following quote, which I have practiced as much as is practical: “When in Bangkok, do what your mama told you never to do – talk to a stranger.”

Deutsches Haus Restaurant on Beach Road

Deutsches Haus Restaurant on Beach Road

One of my favorite restaurants on the Gulf of Thailand is Deutsches Haus located on Soi 4 on Beach Road in Pattaya City. I’ve been eating there for 12 years. I’ve eaten there with my wife and daughter; I’ve eaten there many times with a friend and fellow tennis aficionado, whom past away of a heart attack at the age of 61, a few years ago now. The last time I saw him, before I went to his Buddhist funeral, was a breakfast we had at Deutsches Haus on the last day of a trip to see the Pattaya Women’s Tennis Tournament, among other things.

The waitress who works there is named Mook. She has served my food many times. Mook is not a stranger but she once was, until I began talking to her, as Jerry advises.  Mook is skinny, appears shy, cross-eyed, makes about $8.00 a day plus tips and has one of the most beautiful smiles you will ever see. And her crossed eyes always sparkle when she does smile. I asked Mook yesterday what her name meant, because most Thai nick names have an English meaning. Nok meaning, bird and Ped meaning, duck as two examples. She just waved her hands, said, “No meaning, Mook may suay” the latter part translated to, Mook is not beautiful. I don’t concur with Mook, I think she is one of the beautiful souls that Henry Miller talks about in the foundational quote that inspired Thailand Footprint’s creation. If you can forget yourself long enough the Mook’s of the world are everywhere. I was told later by her waitress friend, Da that Mook may mean a small seashell, like those you would find in the sand at the beach. The grace, humility, positive attitude towards work and inner beauty of people like Mook is just one reason I love Thailand.

Mook, my waitress, brings a a soda water ...

Mook, my waitress, brings a a soda water ...

Yesterday I spoke with Mook about how someone snatched my gold chain off my neck at that very restaurant, two days ago – it was Mook’s day off and she wanted to hear all about the big story she had missed out on. So I told her: as I sat at my table alone, drinking coffee, somewhat preoccupied in thought, a man had aproached me and in the blink of an eye yanked off the gold chain I wore around my neck.  A chain purchased for $100.00 in a Kalgoorlie, Australia gold shop after an 8 hour train ride from Perth, W.A., 12 years ago. It had great sentimental value as that purchase came just one day before I met my wife, Ratree, for the first time.  I chased my assailant as quickly as I could, yelling, thief! Police! Repeatedly. The calls did not go unanswered. Four good Samaritans, three of whom are Thai motorcy taxi drivers, answered the calls.  One of those three was a large, strong Thai man with five Buddhist amulets dangling on his chest. He was most responsible for pursuing, capturing and holding the man for the police that arrived shortly thereafter amid a gathering crowd.

The man I call, Good Sam. He was most responsible for capturing the gold snatcher ...

The man I call, Good Sam. He was most responsible for capturing the gold snatcher

One small, very Thai detail: this man who stole my gold chain was a cross-dressing katoey as they are known in Thailand. There are many. And some steal often. The amazing thing was, the transvestite thief could sense the jig was up as the police arrived so he tossed the gold chain on the restaurant floor and then pointed at it, pretending he had helped find it. It was a good ploy on his part as the man in brown that talked to me in English soon after said it would be difficult to press charges with the evidence not found on him. I was so relieved to regain my object of sentimentality that I was okay with that. They did take his picture, 5’8″  150 lbs, red lipstick, real shoulder length black hair and common yellow house-dress. This is Thailand too. Did I mention the restaurant is located just 25 yards from the beach?

The view from Deutsches Haus restaurant on Beach Street ...

The view from Deutsches Haus restaurant on Beach Street …

As I recapped the story to Mook, which was still very fresh in my mind, she smiled the whole time and seemed genuinely happy, which made me happy to see that. Mook repeated in English several times, “You lucky. You very lucky.” On that point, I had to agree with Mook. I am lucky. Lucky to have lived for as many months and years in Thailand as I have. Lucky to have had so many small moments fill my jug. If I am really lucky, that jug is only 2/3 full.

Because I cannot think of a better place to fill the last third of life’s jug than Thailand. A country where lucky is defined as having a man wearing lipstick and a dress, snatch and break your cherished gold necklace. Stirling Silliphant got it right, “Even the small adventures are memorable.” Just another day of collecting seashells (and an occasional pearl, for the lucky) at the beach, in Thailand.

The beautifully smiling, Mook.

The beautifully smiling, Mook.

CityLife

This post was also published at Chiang Mai City News on Valentines Day 2014 and may be seen there by clicking the above banner

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Poke Raferty Series by Timothy Hallinan

The Poke Rafferty series is five [ the sixth to be published in November, 2014 by SoHo Crime http://www.sohocrime.com ] critically acclaimed Bangkok thrillers written by author, Timothy Hallinan whom divides his time among a Southern California beach community, Bangkok and a slightly less idyllic seaside town on the Gulf of Thailand, where he gets a lot of good writing done. Tim frequents other parts of South East Asia as well.

Tim is also the author of the erudite private eye, Simeon Grist, 6 novel mystery series and the more recent, Junior Bender, 3 novel mystery series featuring a wise-cracking investigator whom has a second job as a successful burglar. Both series are set in L.A. On his web site http://www.timothyhallinan.com you will find an entire section for writers on FINISH YOUR NOVEL. Here are Tim’s own words regarding the background for the Poke Rafferty series: “Poke Rafferty had written two rough travel books – Looking for Trouble in the Philippines and Looking for Trouble in Indonesia – when he arrived in Thailand to write the next one.

And Thailand – especially Bangkok – changed his life forever.

Now married to the former “queen” of the Patpong bars, Rose, with whom he’s adopted a daughter off the sidewalks, Miaow, Rafferty finds family life in Bangkok to be more of an adventure than rough travel ever was. But, after years of travel, he’s also in the process of finding his heart and his personal true North.

The books are thrillers, but they’re also the continuing story of a hand-made family trying to stay together against all the odds.”

It is the patchwork nuclear family setting, for me, which sets the Poke series apart from much of the other available Bangkok based fiction. That and the brilliant prose of Timothy Hallinan.

Timothy Hallinan comes from a rock n’ roll background. He wrote songs and played in a rock band while a University student growing up in California. His songs were recorded by many well known artists, including the platinum selling group, BREAD, which placed 13 songs on The Billboard 100 between 1970 and 1977. My sister owned every album BREAD ever made.

bread essentials
You need not read the Poke Rafferty series in order. They stand alone perfectly well. I first read, THE QUEEN of PATPONG, which is fourth in sequence, followed by BREATHING WATER, (3rd) FEAR ARTIST, (5th) A NAIL THROUGH THE HEART (1st) and THE FOURTH WATCHER (2nd), which I picked up periodically but never finished. Do not make anything of that fact. I can say the same about all series of novels by any of my favorite authors and Timothy Hallinan is one of my favorite authors.

TimHallinan

Author Timothy Hallinan signs copies of his Poke Rafferty Bangkok Thriller Series while in Cambodia (Photo by Andy Brouwer)

In A NAIL THROUGH THE HEART, Poke wants to marry ex-bar girl Rose and adopt then 8 years old and street wise, street-girl, Miaow. Hallinan gets across the bleakness of Bangkok with ample doses of humor. And it works.

In BREATHING WATER the family unit is properly set. Poke, now married to Rose and daughter Miaow make a threesome you care about. Hallinan does first class antagonists; in this thriller he is Pan, once a two-bit thug that used his considerable skills, good and evil, to turn himself into a Thai billionaire. Poke wins the right to pen Pan’s biography in a poker game with the help of his returning character friend, Thai policeman Arthit. Poke and his family always seems to be in jeopardy and Poke loves his family. We know the drill by now, but it is a good drill with Hallinan’s prose leading the way. The Thai power elite are after Poke because they don’t want the book written. In a scene we’ve seen many times before, an abduction, complete with hood adorned in the back seat of a limo, with heavy’s on each side, takes place. Only this time, it’s Hallinan style:

Rafferty says, “I’d be frightened if you hadn’t put the hood on.”

“That just means we’re not going to kill you. It doesn’t mean we’re not going to beat the shit out of you.”

“When I’m frightened, I shut up,” Rafferty says.

After a moment of silence, the man to his right chuckles.

“You chuckled, too,” Rafferty says. “Did somebody teach all you guys to chuckle?”

“The chuckle,” the man to his right says, “is a perfectly acceptable form of laughter.”

Besides humor, Hallinan paints the desperation of the Bangkok street people as well as the perks of the privileged class in Thai society to perfection.

QUEEN of PATPONG was nominated for an Edgar Award by the Mystery Writers of America in 2011 and rightfully so. It is a great novel with great writing.

EdgarAwardMWA

Anyone who characterizes THE QUEEN of PATPONG as a bar girl book diminishes it, intentionally or unintentionally – it is not that. What it is, is what astute readers look for, a good story with conflict all over the place and resolution where it is needed most. Rose is as strong a female character as you will find in any book and she literally and figuratively takes center stage in this, my all time favorite Bangkok thriller. For those who might think Hallinan glamorizes the Bangkok night, sample this as Poke listens to his wife speak among a group and think again:

I let one of the men rename me. A man gave me the name Rose – you didn’t know that, did you, Poke?…He said, this man, he said that Kwan was too hard to remember, even though it’s a good name and it means ‘spirit,’ and that the rose was the queen of flowers and I was the queen of Patpong.” She laughs, rough as a cough. “The queen of Patpong. A kingdom of whores and viruses. Death with a smile.”

What makes THE QUEEN OF PATPONG unique is the second section, which is turned over to the female characters, completely, in a revealing and compulsive read. Hallinan does what all great writers do, he makes you want to turn the page to learn of the journey Rose took from the lanky, innocent girl teased in her village, to the most coveted prostitute in all of the Patpong bars, before Poke walks into her life.

We also see Miaow’s progress; she’s smart, a good student, still ballsy in all the right ways and is preparing for her upcoming part in her school play, the Tempest. I am leery when author’s throw Shakespeare in the back story – not being a fan myself – but it worked. Once again Poke’s family is at risk – this time at the hands of a serial killer. A man from Rose’s past. And once again Poke needs the help of his policeman friend, Arthit. The boat scene is more than good enough, it’s brilliant and the cinematic and entirely believable Thai justice ending is as satisfying as a reader gets.

Fear Artist

The fifth in the series is, THE FEAR ARTIST. Published just 9 months after the flood that hit Bangkok in 2011. Hallinan allows the flood to soak in just enough as a perfect back-story, which impressed me because the original draft must have been dry.

Bangkok Flood 2011
The Bangkok Flood of 2011

The book opens with Poke backing out of a paint store with cans of paint in his hands, Apricot Cream and Urban Decay are the colors of choice, in a busy Bangkok neighborhood, when a bleeding man, shot, crumples into Poke’s life knocking them both to the ground. Before he dies he whispers, “Helene Ekersley. Cheyenne.” Poke gets brought in for questioning, conveniently forgetting the dying utterance, which irks the wrong people in power. As a result Poke is framed for a crime he couldn’t possibly have done. But this is Thailand. As Poke states, “Bangkok may not be glamorous…but it’s got lurid down cold.” Poke must send Rose and Miaow up country, make a roof top escape from the police when they visit him a second time and find the real killer. The absence of Rose and Miaow is filled in by the re-appearance of Poke’s 1/2 sister, Ming Li, she of 17 years-old going on 30.

There is some excellent writing in THE FEAR ARTIST. Characters and setting are superb. The evil and greedy antagonist, Murphy is an ex-soldier who has to cover up past atrocities in a Viet Nam War era life by committing more atrocities in real time. But it’s Murphy’s daughter, Treasure who is the mesmerizing one. Hallinan’s cynical humor gets a perfect character to play with in Janos, an otherwise forgettable Russian spy leftover from the cold-war, that Hallinan makes memorable for all of his forgettable qualities. There are many that have expressed THE FEAR ARTIST to be their favorite in the series. And for good reasons. Hallinan makes valid political commentary about the U.S. Phoenix Program, the troubles in the south of Thailand and good old American greed. But I still give the nod to THE QUEEN of PATPONG because Rose and Miaow are absent so much here and by now, lets face it, they are family to the reader.

I recently received an advance readers copy of Poke #6 tentatively titled, FOR THE DEAD. All I will say at this time for current and future fans of Poke Rafferty and his makeshift family is, the best is yet to come.

In case you don’t recall BREAD or their songs, think of Hallinan as more of a Brian Wilson of, The Beach Boys type of writer. Pick up anything written by Timothy Hallinan and chances are you’ll be pickin’ up good vibrations. Read any of the Poke Rafferty series with the statuesque Rose and find out how she started working on the brain of Poke with just one look. Rose now runs a successful cleaning business but the former go go dancer and current tall Thai beauty is capable of giving so much more than just excitations to any reader.

BrianWilson
Singer and songwriter, Brian Wilson

An inference can be drawn from the above quote by Rose that no one person should ever decree the title of King or Queen of anything on anyone. No attempt will be made to do so here. But if there was to be a contest for King of the Bangkok Fiction Hill, Timothy Hallinan would be on any respectable invitation list. Bangkok fiction has a diverse cast of authors and titles from which to choose. You may prefer the Rolling Stones’ 19th NERVOUS BREAKDOWN over the Beatles, SHE CAME INTO THE BATHROOM WINDOW. Tom Waits’ THE PIANO HAS BEEN DRINKING (Not Me) over Tom Petty’s, MARY JANE’S LAST DANCE. Bob Dylan’s LAY, LADY LAY or Sam the Sham’s LITTLE RED RIDING HOOD? Neil Young’s CINNAMON GIRL or Jackson Browne’s REDNECK FRIEND? I look for good writing, wherever I can find it.

beatlesPA0204_468x322
The Fab Four

And great writing is what you will find in the Poke Rafferty series by Timothy Hallinan, which just so happens to take place in Bangkok. And some of those moments are spent in bars. The Thais have an expression – they even have to use the English word when they say it because they have no Thai equivalent.  That’s how jai yen yen they are. It is, “Don’t be serious.” Put another way: It’s only Bangkok Fiction … but I like it.

Elvis Impersonators

 Accept no imitations

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NOVELS in the Poke Rafferty Series by Timothy Hallinan

Also available at good Independent Book Shops

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ChrisColesTomVater

Artist Chris Coles talks with Author Tom Vater at Bangkok Fiction Night of Noir

(Photo by Aroon Vater)

Last night I was one of the lucky ones in attendance at Bangkok Fiction Night of Noir, held at the historic CheckInn99. It was a night of music, poetry, art, literature readings and a sense of community. A village forming, however briefly, in a city of 12 million souls. The evening started off with British author James A. Newman, the organizer of the event, reading from the works of American author and essayist William S. Burroughs and also his own novel, Bangkok City in an emotional and appropriate kickoff. Bangkok is a city where anything is possible and this evening became possible because of James A. Newman. Good on him.NightofNoirLineup—————————————————————————-

NIGHT OF NOIR lineup: Artist, Chris Coles, author & publisher, Tom Vater, author James A. Newman, poet, John Gartland, author and essayist Christopher G. Moore, author Dean Barrett

Noir poet John Gartland, from England, was next with readings from his very dark and noir poetry. Of the entire lineup I was least familiar with John’s work and I came away thoroughly entertained. It was a thoughtful and at times brutally accurate read. I found myself nodding in agreement many times with his dark assessment of Bangkok and often smiling wryly at the accuracy of it all. Next up was Bangkok legend, playwright, poet and author Dean Barrett with a flawless and insightful reading from his novel, IDENTITY THEFT: ALZHEIMER’S IN AMERICA, SEX IN THAILAND, TANGLES OF THE MIND. Dean is multi-talented and if my 58 year old eyes were not lying there were times the 70 year old Barrett did not have to depend on his glasses. Amazing. Dean is a role model and mentor to many in Bangkok and not just writers. Always witty, always gracious. My only nit with Dean is he carries his very good quality of self deprecation a little too far. I have a theory that sometimes there is a direct relationship between talent and self deprecation and Dean supports my theory. Next up was writer and CRIME WAVE PRESS publisher, Tom Vater. In all honesty, I am much more familiar with how Tom has lived his life than his books. But I can tell you this man knows how to live. Do yourself a favor and Google Tom Vater or CRIME WAVE PRESS if you are not familiar with either. You will not be bored. A very interesting man leading a very interesting life, whom I had the pleasure of meeting for the first time. I’m looking forward to reading and reviewing as many titles from CRIME WAVE PRESS as I can in 2013.

Bangkok Noir Author CGM

Portrait of Bangkok author Christopher G. Moore by Chris Coles

Bangkok artist and fellow Californian transplant, Chris Coles is another who is never boring. Chris is a former film maker, a student and master of the visual arts. Chris never disappoints with his presentations. A slide show of his many colorful and vibrant paintings was shown as he was at the microphone. He spoke of the noir movement in Bangkok and summed it up brilliantly in two words: density and velocity. As a professional summarizer of written documents I don’t think you can do any better in summarizing the attraction of the Bangkok night. They are worth repeating: density and velocity. That is the Bangkok night. That is what brings 14 million people on airplanes to Thailand every year. Chris had the pleasure of introducing well known Bangkok author, Christopher G. Moore. Christopher read an excerpt from his short story REUNION from Phnom Penh Noir, about helping a Cambodian refugee get to America, a story where Christopher relayed to the audience there are times when an author meets a character he wrote about – sometimes they are real; sometimes they had been a work of fiction that becomes real. An interesting and entirely believable admission. The story concluded with these powerful words: I don’t believe in capital punishment except for one offense: fucking with people’s hopes and dreams. Put those bastards against the nearest wall and shoot them.

And so this was how BANGKOK FICTION NIGHT OF NOIR concluded. But not really. It was just the beginning of more memorable moments as Chris Catto-Smith, the owner/manager of CheckInn 99 came to the microphone and gave a brief history of the historic cabaret club. Books were bought, books were signed, many pictures were taken and a five piece band, including three female Pinay cabaret singers, which has been performing there for 14 consecutive years, named Music of the Heart, came on . They were great. James A. Newman was great for conceiving the night. It was a night to remember. As Dean Barrett so eloquently pointed out when he thanked the audience for coming out, in Bangkok you have a lot of choices. For anybody who attended BANGKOK FICTION NIGHT of NOIR, it was a very good choice. People drifted out around midnight. The night was still young in Bangkok.

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I am not a writer. And yet I like to write. I find no incongruity to this. I am not a breatharian yet I enjoy breathing; I like eating an assortment of vegetables but I am not a vegetarian. I could go on. A writer might. How do I define, writer? It’s a good question. Certainly I have made a fair amount of money through the written word. But so have English teachers, accident investigators and email spammers. Writer, to me, conjures up images of a manly man like Ernest Hemingway or a Dapper Dan like F. Scott Fitzgerald. In the fictional world, James Caen comes to mind in the movie, MISERY adapted from a book written by another genuine writer, Stephen King. On the female fictional side, Angela Lansbury from the television series MURDER SHE WROTE is my stereotypical writer, no matter how inappropriate that may be.

I have learned, as I so often have, that I am wrong. There is no such thing as a stereotypical writer or novelist. No generalizations can be made. At least not with any accuracy. Except for one. Writers write, creatively.  And they do it with such regularity that books appear,  electronic ones or old fashioned ones. And I applaud them for doing this. The world is a much better place because of creative writers. A world without creative writers is a world I would not want to live in. Given the choice between creative physical art or the creative thought provoking words of a writer, well, I’ve always been a words guy. That would be an easy call to make.

I like writers. Certainly, not all writers. As Jerry Lewis was purported to have said many years ago, before the internet, before Snopes, “Percentage wise there are just as many assholes in wheelchairs as any other segment of the population.” And if Jerry never said that, well, he should have. My point is that being a writer doesn’t make you a nice person any more than being in a wheelchair for life makes you a nice person. But I have drawn some inferences from the writers I have known and spent some time with, both in California and in Thailand.  Writers like to live.  Writers enjoy living.  More than your average Joe or Jane.  And I have a theory as to why that is. Writers are just a wee bit more aware of one inevitability. One certainty. We die. We all die. Writers, accountants, lawyers, dentists and trust fund aging hippies  alike. The writer has just figured out, earlier than most, that we should make the moments count. Be mindful. Be aware. To paraphrase that old country western song: writers were mindful before mindfulness was cool.

I like to think I have gleaned many good qualities from writers. And the great part about that is, you don’t have to do any writing to do that. Here is what I have learned. Your results may vary. Observation. Writers have helped me observe the world, better. And what a fascinating world we have to watch. Empathy. Writers need this. Writers have this. Encouragement. One writer in California once told me, “The world needs more encouragement.” He had tracked me down in the parking lot of a gym, just to tell me he thought I had worked out hard that day. He didn’t have to do that. But now I try and be more encouraging.  Generosity. Writers are people after all. But these people, that call themselves writers, have been very generous to me. With their time, their advice, their books and their humor.  And I wanted to take this opportunity to thank each and every one of them, here. Well, except for the assholes. You know who you are.

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