Thailand Footprint: The People, Things, Literature, and Music of Thailand and the Region

Posts from the ‘Writing’ category

I first became aware of Christopher Minko and the Khmer musicians who make up the band Krom when the lyrics to some of their songs appeared in Phnom Penh Noir (Heaven Lake Press – 2012) edited by Christopher G. Moore. The more you learn about the Minko and Krom story the more you are drawn to it. Christopher Minko was born and raised in the country that rightfully has earned the moniker of, “The Lucky County”, Australia. Music was emphasized at an early age; his mother being a concert pianist. He now lives in what could easily be cast as one of the unluckiest countries, working with people who were not born into fortune but have found ways to make their lives a success, despite enormous obstacles.

MinkoGuitar

I have long been a fan of lyrics as stand alone works of art, so I was perfectly comfortable with the idea of musical lyrics appearing in a book of noir short stories. I was comfortable with the idea, but the actual lyrics created occasional discomfort. It never occurred to me, at the time, that was part of the Krom message and the Minko plan. Christopher Minko screams what few dare to whisper. Because to whisper his messages would be to acknowledge the existence of a dark abyss not occupying a fictional world but a real one. And that gets many of us, including me, out of our comfort zone. Here is an excerpt from the lyrics of one such song, which can be found on the last two pages of Phnom Penh Noir titled, TANGO TRAFFIC TANGO:

PPN-cover

The cattle class

Of ancient Men

Are greeted with open arms

Welcome to our daughters

We breed them on our farms

Ripe for human trafficking

We sell their innocent charms

Yea, air traffic

Rail traffic

Road traffic

And human trafficking

Where money and sex are king

Yea, human trafficking

Where money and sex are king

So welcome to our daughters

We breed them on our farms

Open up and take them

In your aging sagging arms

Yea, welcome to our daughters

We breed them on our farms

So thank goodness or badness or darkness, or whatever you wish to call it, because somebody or something needs to get us out of our comfort zone more often. One of those people is Christopher Minko, the lead man for the noir band Krom with a Khmer edge, whom I welcome here today for a lengthy two-part interview:

Minko

KC: Christopher Minko, welcome to Thailand Footprint.  I’m an old basketball junkie. And although my playing days are well behind me, I continue to think it is a great game and see the beauty in it. In basketball you have 5 starters. On the court, they need to get along, to be unselfish, to cooperate, and to acknowledge they are part of something bigger than themselves. After the game is over, they can get along together or not. It doesn’t really matter. At the professional level , these are referred to as a one taxi team or a five taxi team.  My question to you is, does the principal apply to bands? Is it necessary to get along with each other after you finish playing or can you play well on stage and then go your separate ways after the gig? Have you played with mostly one taxi bands, five taxi bands or a combination in your career? And finally how would you characterize Krom, on and off the stage?

CM: Kevin – firstly – my appreciation along with  thanks from Krom – it’s a great blog site you are maintaining and we are honoured at the interview – You first question – a tough question indeed – I’ve been  a professional musician a number of times in this rather twisted life of mine to date – The early 80’s were spent playing with cult Australian Band “The Bachelors from Prague” which was without doubt 5 different cabs combined with the folly of egoistical youth – great band but we split when one half wanted to go Tijuana Brass whilst personally I was along the lines of that gentleman deviant Chet Baker (at that time I played both trumpet and guitar) – the split could be slightly compared to the current state of Thai politics insofar that friendships were certainly shattered (not all) –however a violent breakup it wasn’t.

Now Krom – that’s a very different story – believe it or not –as I am nearing 60 years of age – I am now working in the most professional band I have ever worked with – In one way very much a one taxi band – tight ,well rehearsed, disciplined, cohesive and very professional – there are many that say the live shows are even better than the CD’s (we appreciate that compliment…) however there are some very interesting points about Krom that create the unique signature Krom sound. It’s also important to note that both Sophea Chamroeun (Krom co-founder / songwriter and lead vocals) and Sopheak Chamroeun (lead vocals) have studied Cambodian traditional dance and music under the best of masters since they were 12 through the international acclaimed “Cambodian Living Arts Program” plus both are recent graduates of the Royal University of Fine Arts in Phnom Penh – they both have a very professional work ethic and approach to their work with Krom.

MinkoKrom1

Hey: Can’t forget my good friend and musical colleague, multi-instrumentalist, Jimmy B who is the fourth member of Krom and understands my music better than most.

Krom4

So – to Kromthings: Firstly – Let me get this one out of the way before I start – I have little to no time for whiteboy bands or musicians trying to play the music of another culture (in this case Cambodian music) –for  me the resulting sound of white boys playing Khmer music sounds clichéd and tacky plus locals just do it better – that’s just the way it is – and I have a deep love and respect for Khmer music  – therefore, I would never dare, out of respect, to tamper with this remarkable music created by Cambodians – That now said –  Krom is, and always will be, a Phnom Penh based bi-lingual band (Khmer and English) playing original compositions – the key to the original music of Krom is the following formula which is not easy to do from a composers viewpoint as you have to have your ego well under control to allow this to happen with your compositions –  noting also –  once in a while remarkable musical partnerships of unique productivity evolve – such is the relationship between Sophea Chamroeun, the Krom lead vocalist, and I – Sophea seems to just totally understand where I am coming from with the Krom music – however I digress – back to the Krom formula – for 3 years now Kromsongs simply pour out of me (there is a reason for that explained at the end of this answer) – what I do is record the guitar foundations of a Krom song, put it on a memory stick and then hand it to Sophea without saying a word or even  humming a suggested melody riff (this is where one puts the ego in a box and closes the lid) – Sophea goes away and totally on her own creates the Khmer lyrics and vocal melody without any influence whatsoever from me – All I can say is that she has never ever let me (or Krom) down in this regard and I am always  so surprised (and usually very excited) at what  sounds she builds around the delta blues picking of my guitar work and compositions – I use the same principle of respect with our Khmer producer, Sarin Chhuon, who then also adds his own unique Khmer interpretation of the master tapes and at the end you have the rather unique signature sound that is Krom.

I should also mention the social issues that Krom touches on within many of the Krom lyrics with a focus on the ever ongoing tragedy of sexual trafficking and sexually slavery which is prolific in South East Asia along with being nurtured and developed as a major industry by the very corrupt ruling elites of the South East Asian nations who are willing , as I sing in The Kromsong “Tango Traffic Tango” – “to sell their daughters” – sorry – but that’s the harsh brutal (mostly denied) truth about these societies and it needs to be sung about –   that’s simply part of what Krom do.

Sophea and Sopheak, in theier own way, are very courageous individuals and represent the first wave of (dare I say) protest singers or singers of songs of social justice, to come out of Cambodia – interesting development indeed.

Something also of great relevance to Krom is the ongoing Noir related themes  (Kroms debut 2012 album is suitably titled “Songs from the Noir”)– apart from a rather Noir life led, ouch – there are rather dark sides to the Minko story that should remain unspoken for a variety of reasons…(Ah ain’t no saint…)  –  all Krom lyrics are very personal and there is a true (and often very dark) story or seven within all Kromsongs. I should also acknowledge renowned Bangkok based Noir author, Christopher G. Moore, and our ongoing friendship which has resulted in me using words from Christopher’s novels in the Krom song, the Ying and other songs. I believe Christopher Moore should be acknowledged for his lead role in the development of the now internationally recognized and growing creative movement known as South East Asia Noir – Many of us involved in the Noir movement ,including the 2ndgeneration of  Asian Noir writers such as Tom Vater and other recent newcomers, are deeply indebted to Moore for his decades of effort to promote and develop SE Asian Noir as a recognized creative genre.

And noting your Blog site’s title, Thailand Footprint  – allow me to make a personal reference to Thailand:   My wife who came from Thailand and the mother of my now 20 year old daughter passed away 3 years ago – as a result of her death and the associated personal grief, I returned to my musical roots  – out of something so sad (her passing) came Krom – A remarkable woman from Bangkok who left a unique legacy called Krom…………….

MinkoDaughter

Christopher Minko shown with his beautiful 20 year old daughter

KC:  Thanks for being so candid, Christopher. I expected nothing less. Shifting gears for a moment, talk to me about your role in disability awareness and disability sports in Cambodia.

CM: Ah – the Disability work  – easy answer to that one: “Keeps a man’s feet firmly on the ground and properly humble” – 18 years have been spent working with rural based Cambodians with a Disability via sports and other small scale  socio economic developmental projects based on poverty alleviation –These persons with a Disability are truly inspiring people who put one’s own life very much into a proper less selfish perspective – an ongoing humbling experience whereby I have truly learnt one core rule about life – “we are all disabled” –  (after all – who the hell has the ferkin right to define normality ?). Disability sports are still very embryonic in Cambodia however we have reached great heights over the years, despite the odds, including reaching current No 2 in the world in Volleyball (Men’s – beating Australia, Canada, USA, Korea and everyone else,(except for the goddam Germans – that’s yet to happen but it will – rest assured)

At the moment my disability work focuses on assisting women with a more severe disability (women in wheelchairs) through wheelchair basketball – an exceptional program of women successfully rebuilding their lives through a highly disciplined  – note the word – discipline – No touchy feely bullshit is allowed in our programs – If you don’t pull your weight – we throw you out – this philosophy / methodology works wonders (much to the horror of the horrid politically correct NGO world and their endless fruitless hugging workshops…)…) and we now have 32 highly committed women, 16 of whom will, for the first time ever, represent Cambodia at the Korea 2014 Asia Para games

Most of all – like I said – keeps a bloke very humble…………….probably keep doing this work part time until I die as its simply remarkable work with very dignified people who have so little – yet have so much  – you can see the impact and strength of the women in the photos

In their own odd way, somehow, the disability / social justice work and the music of Krom go beautifully hand in hand

MinkoChair

KC: It’s interesting to me how you stated the disability / social justice work you do in Cambodia and the music of Krom go beautifully together. I can understand how that would be the case. That leads to an idea you and I have discussed before and it seems appropriate to discuss here. That is the possibility of a Goodwill wheelchair basketball game being held in Thailand between the Cambodian women’s team and the Thailand women’s team. Let’s talk about why it is such a good idea. Maybe we can get the ball rolling so to speak to make that happen. And of course a Krom gig in Thailand after the game is over would be doubly nice as well. I can think of so many reasons why a game of sport like that makes sense. But right now a lot of things that don’t make much sense to me are happening in Bangkok. Let’s not talk negative politics, for now, tell me your reasons why a wheelchair basketball game held in Thailand, sometime in 2014, would be a win/win for the two countries no matter what the score may read when the actual game is over?

Bball

CM: Both Krom and the Women’s Wheelchair Project are linked to social justice / poverty alleviation, and a very interesting note: sexual trafficking + sexual abuse are also a common theme – few realize that sexual abuse against Cambodian women with a Disability is 7 times higher than with non disabled women – they are easier to exploit – many of the CNVLD women are survivors of this form of abuse.

Your question / Query is perfect timing

Bball2

We all know that Sport can be a  powerful vehicle when it comes  to fostering healing goodwill and harmony amongst nations( and often within a nation for that matter…) one only has to refer to Mr Mandela and his use of sports a as mechanism to heal wounds between black and white south Africans as an excellent example of this . All of us recognize the long and ever ongoing animosity between Thailand and Cambodia so what better way to start the ball rolling than to organize that the Cambodian Women’s wheelchair basketball team go to Thailand – back to the perfect timing of your question – right now I have Cambodia’s first ever National Women’s Wheelchair Basketball team in place (recently selected by international experts) – they have had three coaching tenures under foreign coaches (from OZ and USA)over the past 2 years as part their development however they have never played on an international standard indoor court (polished wood or high tech sports floor surface) – As you know the CNVLD is supported by the ICRC and we do have the funds in place for transporting the team to Thailand and back to Cambodia – what we are looking for is an organization / and – or – individuals who could host such a visit – 15 persons in total – 12 of whom are women with a disability –  and host this group for 4-7 days including identifying and organizing a proper sports venue to train and what would be even better – Is there a Thai Women’s Wheelchair basketball that would like to compete against our team? – we are ready to come – just need to find reliable partners at the Thai end who can assist with the organization / hosting – and it doesn’t matter where in Thailand ! – note – Its essential that the Cambodian team practice on an international standard court before they compete internationally,  for the first time ever, at the Korea Asia Para Games – Oct 2014.  Such a project would be as you say, definite win-win for both nations and one would hope that this would lead to an annual exchange between Thai and Cambodian athletes with a disability including Thai athletes also coming over to Battambang for training and competition sessions with CNVLD athletes– I’ve long wanted this to happen also given my long term and close relationship to both Thailand and Cambodia – 2 nations, that , from all aspects – economically, socially, and culturally –urgently  need to start working closer on a positive level with each other –I’d truly appreciate any assistance your readers may be able to offer with such a potential goodwill visit and value that you have raised this issue – as said – we are ready to roll ! ( ……….and win…)

And – YES –off course, for many personal, historical and other reasons, I would love to see Krom performing in Bangkok – after all many of the Kromsongs emanate from this truly remarkable city and we are honoured that Christopher G Moore has already agreed to MC the historic debut of “Krom in Bangkok” when we get there (hopefully soon)

NoirSongs

KC: A wheelchair basketball game between the two countries with some Krom music afterwards would sure beat the games being played in Bangkok presently and the noise being made, which is not music to anybody’s ears I know.  I’ll make a few phone calls this month myself. We’re going to call it a day here. Part 2 of Thailand Footprint’s Christopher Minko interview will run tomorrow and deal heavily with social justice issues in Cambodia and the region, particularly human trafficking. Christopher Minko doesn’t pull any punches. You may not agree with everything he says, but you better have your facts in order if you plan to disagree. Stay tuned. But until then you can check out Minko and Krom at the links below. To fully appreciate them, they must be listened to. So have a listen to Mango Madness, Monsoon Sadness by Krom on one of their YouTube videos:

Krom albums: Neon Dark / Songs from the Noir are available via ITUNES / CD Baby / AMAZON / SPOTIFY

Krom on You Tube: http://www.youtube.com/user/themekongsessions/videos

Krom on Face book: https://www.facebook.com/KromSong

@Kromsong on Twitter: https://twitter.com/#!/kromsong

Official website: http://www.themekongsessions.com/

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A Reblog of an excellent book review of, ALMOST HOME by Janet Brown … “Could I live here?” Could I call this place Home? Where is Home, when you can choose the whole world? Where is Home, when you were born with a wandering soul and insatiable curiosity? Where? That question resonates within the hearts of most, if not all expatriates or exiles. I know it looms large over us.

Katia Novet Saint-Lot's avatarKatia Novet Saint-Lot

almost home Almost Home, The Asian Search of a Geographic Trollop , is Janet Brown’s second travelogue. In Tone Deaf in Bangkok , which I reviewed in my previous blog,  here , Janet took us on a journey through the back alleys of the Thai capital, offering us glimpses of the city that very few tourists care to see. More importantly, she took us on her own private journey, as she explored facets of her identity. In her own words, Tone Deaf in Bangkok was a “thank-you note to Bangkok which became a book, a long series of stories about my years there.”

In Almost Home, Janet pushes her exploration further. After seven years in the US, feeling like an exile, she has decided to move permanently to Bangkok. But the political situation has become deeply troubled, and she no longer feels at home in the city she loves so much…

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Can you picture your favorite Thomas Kinkade painting? That was a trick question. Can you picture ANY Thomas Kinkade painting? If you can do either, you’ll need to deviate 180 degrees from where you are to enter the bleak, dark world Jim Algie has painted, with brutal honesty, in his fine collection of short stories, THE PHANTOM LOVER and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand. (Tuttle Publishing, Singapore 2014). ​The book has been available in Thailand bookstores since the beginning of the year. The Amazon.com release date was February 4, 2014, available in paperback or ebook format.
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The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand by Jim Algie
The Phantom Lover is composed of 9 stories; the shortest being a mere 10 pages about a love affair regarding a male feline temptress with a hair fetish – The Vicious Little Monk. The longest and last is, Tsunami at 113 pages or over 1/3 of the book’s 319 total pages, detailing the devastation – physical and emotional – of the 2004 earthquake and subsequent destructive waves, set in Phuket, Thailand. While the first 8 can  be read in any order, Tsunami is best read last as it uniquely serves as an epilogue, returning many of the previously read characters we have gotten to know in an ambitious, imperfect and entertaining novella-like finale.
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The book starts off well, with a personal favorite: Death Kiss of a King Cobra Show, featuring a Thai snake charmer, Yai. For this dear farang reader Algie’s writing style is refreshing in that he creates believable back stories for the Thai people we may have seen many times but never gotten to know or sadly, made no effort to know. Algie’s prose makes us glad we finally did, whether it is a fictional or semi-true tale – the blanks are filled in beautifully. It came as no surprise to me that the two blurbs on the book are from Thailand’s A List of fictional prose, John Burdett and Christopher G. Moore. Yes, the book has the occasional jar head, bar girl, writer/English teacher that doesn’t stretch the reader’s imagination much, but even they tend to be rougher, tougher and more emotionally intelligent than your standard fare. It is the unique Thai characters, like Yai, that stand out for me in this Haunted Mansion ride of a book.
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The Legendary Nobody, creates a believable character and biography for Thailand’s infamous mass murderer, See Ouey. Mr. Ouey is now famously preserved at the Songkran Niyomsane Forensic Medicine Museum located in Bangkok’s Siriraj Hospital. Another real life character that stands out is found in, Life and Death Sentences. A story about Chaovaret Juruboon, whom Algie memorializes in the beginning as: a rock n’ roller, a drinking buddy and Thailand’s last executioner. Both characters are fascinating based on information anyone could Google but it’s the details, some imagined and some true, filled in by Algie, which gave this reader such an entertaining ride. You may feel nauseated on occasion but you’re glad the ticket stub is in your pocket.
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Algie’s brush strokes include a once innocent bar girl who connived retaliation for all the wrongs inflicted upon her by the sordid, perverse and deviant behavior that exists in the Land of Smiles. It ends badly for one customer. Others describe fruit fornicators, necrophilia jokes, criminal philanthropists, a conflicted photojournalist, an honest but corrupt Bangladeshi human trafficker, and farangs living with their illusions and denials. Or worse yet, not living with them.
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Carl Jung was purported to have said, “Knowing your own darkness is the best method for knowing the darkness of other people.” If true, Jim Algie’s shadow must be pitch black and if not a constant companion a friend he can call upon, when needed. In all that darkness are characters trying to make sense of what appears to be a senseless world, sometimes with sardonic wit, sarcasm and black humor other times with the old reliable’s of kindness and caring coupled with an occasional bout of optimism and faith.
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My nit with Algie’s story telling is that he places some great lines in the narrative that would read well in dialogue. As a result the book is dialogue light. An example in Tsunami, a paragraph starts out with: Big tragedies ask huge questions. It concludes with more narrative around a crackling campfire scene about: God and country, death, democracy and in the end what it all came back to was good friends, family loyalties, and the simple dignity of doing an honest day’s work for an honest day’s pay.  Those are moments that convey good values but where I would have liked to have seen more conversation going on as you can read later in the story when Wade confronts a gloomy Yves:
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 “No offense, bud, but I’m kinda getting the feeling that you’ve, uh … lost it.”
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The exchanges from that point on are great at recapping the effects and affects a mass tragedy like the Tsunami of 2004 had on hundreds of thousands of people. Of all the stories my favorite was, The Obituary for the Kaosan Road Outlaws and Imposters. It recalled a time on Khaosan Road in Bangkok, before it became trendy, when people still used pay phones. The back packers, adventurers and petty crooks who lived there found the living was cheap but not always easy. The 47 page story is a ripper of a yarn about the lives and inhabitants of what is now mostly a bygone era in Bangkok. The scene at the airport depicting the commission of an international felony in a pre-technology boarding pass scam is superb. You feel the fear as you read about the knocking knees.
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The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand has something for almost everybody. If you’re the one with the Thomas Kinkade painting above your couch you’ll probably want to give it a pass. But if your tastes run closer to an oil painting by an artist with a severed ear, a Henry Miller watercolor, a Dali pen and ink, a Chris Coles acrylic or even a thumb-tacked poster of Dogs Playing Poker, these thrilling tales are framed beautifully and make for a great read.
For more information about Jim Algie and his books go to: www.jimalgie.club
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AnonymousManBKK

Oh well, I’m the type of guy who will never compromise

When I whistle and I yell, you know that I’m around

I hate ’em and I hate ’em ’cause to me they’re all the same

I squeeze ’em and I squeeze ’em and everybody knows my name

They call me the yammerer

Yea, the yammerer

I roam around, around, around, around

Oh well, there’s Lek on my left and there’s Noi on my right

And Jasmine is the girl that I’ll be with tonight

And when she asks me, which one I love the best

I tear open my shirt, where my face is tattooed on my chest

‘Cause I’m the yammerer

Yea, the yammerer

I roam around, around, around, around

Oh well, I roam from street to street, I go through life without a care

And I’m as happy as a clown

I with my two fists of iron but I’m going nowhere

I’m the type of guy who likes to meet and greet

I’m never in one place, I roam from street to street

And when I find myself a fallin’ for some facts

I hop right in that ‘Benz of mine, until I’m back on track

Yea, ’cause I’m the yammerer

Yea, a yammerer

I roam around, around, around, around

‘Cause I’m a yammerer

Yea, a yammerer

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Henry

We do not talk—we bludgeon one another with facts and theories gleaned from cursory readings of newspapers, magazines and digests. Henry Miller (1891-1980), U.S. author. “The Shadows,” The Air-Conditioned Nightmare (1945).

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Today, February 2nd 2014 is election day throughout Thailand. We live in Bangkok, Thailand much of the year. For those living in the USA or other western countries, particularly those who don’t possess a passport, that may be difficult to fathom in the best of times and impossible to imagine during times of civil unrest, which presently exists including a government mandated State of Emergency prohibiting any meeting of 5 or more persons, among other draconian measures currently in place.

RiverViewInn

The above picture shows where we “lived” from January 15th, 2014 to January 28th, 2014, a river view place in Luang Prabang, Laos. If you look closely you can see the alarm clock, caged on the sidewalk. The two cities could not be more different. I have no idea what the future of Bangkok holds, including the next 6 hours when I am to meet two Facebook friends for a scheduled first face to face meeting. Face to face beats Facebook, most every time, but the political situation is making those meetings more perilous than one would like. So, I’m taking the time today to look backward at Luang Prubang, rather than look forward. Call me a contrarian.

MonkSolo

As peaceful as Luang Prabang was it is difficult at times like these to understand why a Buddhist country like Thailand has so much difficulty finding a middle path?

Temple

Luang Prabang is known for its temples and many monks who live and study in those temples. We saw plenty of both during our two week stay.

MonksSchool

The picture above was taken in the morning as monks proceed up the stairs to an older temple for their morning study session.

Street

It was the everyday life that I enjoyed most. Sure, we partook in the touristy stuff. But it was the in between moments that linger in my mind. Above is a picture of a typical street you would find in the UNESCO World Heritage city.

BoyBike

Boys and girls on their bikes on the way to school or back from school or just for fun on a weekend, everywhere. 1950s California images kept conjuring up in my mind – all good ones.

CockFight1

Cultural sightings, for which I make no judgments, like this friendly cock fight we saw at a local village just 20 minutes outside Luang Prabang.

Cockfight2

This cock fight was strictly recreational. They wore no fighting gear other than what nature gave them. The real cock fights, the ones held in villages throughout Laos, take place every Saturday and Sunday afternoon in their own special stadium with seats for the viewers and an arena for the fighting cocks. Gambling, of course, takes place as does drinking. I passed on the opportunity to go – too many other things I’d rather see and do. One local told us that foreigners are welcome and do go, occasionally. The last one he saw there was from Australia. Oie, oie, oie.

Mikan

This site is about the people, places and things in South East Asia as well as literature and music. When traveling locally or afar it is the people you meet that can make your day. Here is one such person, named Mikan. A Laos national he worked for the communist government during the Viet Nam War, had to escape the country in the mid 70s to Thailand where he spent two years before gaining refugee status in France. He spent over 30 years in France, has two children living there and returned to Laos less than 10 years ago to retire. Mikan is 67 years old. We ran into Mikan after the morning alms ceremony for the monks, which Luang Prabang is noted for. When I asked Mikan how often he and his wife participate in the alms giving ceremony he repied, “Every day.” He seemed like a peaceful man who believed, sincerely, in merit making.

BreakfastMikan and his wife owned an older property not far from the Khan River, one of two rivers Luang Prabang is situated between – the other being the mighty Mekong. Mikan operated a simple cafe, open for breakfast and lunch only. This is the breakfast he prepared for me for about $3.00 USA.

WomanRiverweed

When I worked as a paralegal in California my boss would come into the office in a good mood and say, “We’re all in our places, with bright shiny faces.” It wasn’t always true but in Luang Prabang you got the sense that everyone knew their place and seemed content with their lot in life, at least on the surface. This woman’s job, which she did everyday at the same time and place, was to separate “river weed”. The nutritional equivalent of seaweed, I would surmise. It could be found on many of the local restaurant menus. We tried it – It’s tasty.

Music

We also met and talked with two Thai musicians who performed 7 nights a week at a Khan River restaurant. They had signed a 5 month contract to work in Luang Prabang for the high season for room and board and salary. Not a bad gig if you ask me. When in Bangkok they told me they played at a club on Khao San Road.

Ramayana

There were cultural events that we attended, including a Laos version of the Ramayana an epic play which I am very familiar with and have seen performed over 20 times.  I actually knew what was going on with Prince Rama, Princess Sita and Hanuman, King of the monkeys and his many loyal followers. Thailand needs a politician with the character of Hanuman. And I am serious.

RoyalPalace

The play was performed by the Laos National Ballet company on the grounds of the former Royal Palace, which has been converted to a National Museum and Theatre.

ManFire

Memories of Luang Prabang would start as soon we awoke and got out into the streets, which we did before sunrise on two occasions – here a man warms himself beneath a string of the many lighted lanterns found on the streets of Luang Prabang.

Sunset

Sunsets were also memorable and we caught as many as we could including one on a riverboat dinner ride. Here is a typical Luang Prabang sunset taken from the bank of the Mekong.

Market

The local markets, another part of everyday life, were also memorable. Luang Prabang is a paradise first and foremost but a photographers paradise to boot.

Fireworks

All good things come to an end and after our two weeks in Luang Prabang we had to leave the fireworks above, which we saw on our last night there as part of a military holiday celebration, to the more damaging fireworks of Bangkok. As I write this I can hear the (literal) whistle blowers, anti-government demonstrators from our condo. Just two days ago the constant firecrackers of Chinese New Year could be heard. Now one hopes the sounds of gunshots will not ring out. At least 10 have already died and there were shoot outs last night.

Home

It took us over 12 years of living in Thailand, part-time, to get to Luang Prabang. If you get a chance to visit, go or better yet make it happen. I found it telling that not one person I communicated with who had been to Luang Prabang – and there were many – had a single bad thing to say about the place. Jame DiBiasio, the author of Gaijin Cowgirl, may have summed it up best for me in a discussion we had on his excellent blog, www.asiahacks.com. Jame told me he vowed never to go back because, “Some experiences can’t be topped.” I liked that sentiment at the time. I understand it even better, now.

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One of my favorite poems by one of my favorite authors, John Updike. He has been gone 5 years already …

“Ex-Basketball Player”

Pearl Avenue runs past the high-school lot,
Bends with the trolley tracks, and stops, cut off
Before it has a chance to go two blocks,
At Colonel McComsky Plaza. Berth’s Garage
Is on the corner facing west, and there,
Most days, you’ll find Flick Webb, who helps Berth out.
Flick stands tall among the idiot pumps—
Five on a side, the old bubble-head style,
Their rubber elbows hanging loose and low.
One’s nostrils are two S’s, and his eyes
An E and O. And one is squat, without
A head at all—more of a football type.
Once Flick played for the high-school team, the Wizards.
He was good: in fact, the best. In ’46
He bucketed three hundred ninety points,
A county record still. The ball loved Flick.
I saw him rack up thirty-eight or forty
In one home game. His hands were like wild birds.
He never learned a trade, he just sells gas,
Checks oil, and changes flats. Once in a while,
As a gag, he dribbles an inner tube,
But most of us remember anyway.
His hands are fine and nervous on the lug wrench.
It makes no difference to the lug wrench, though.
Off work, he hangs around Mae’s Luncheonette.
Grease-gray and kind of coiled, he plays pinball,
Smokes those thin cigars, nurses lemon phosphates.
Flick seldom says a word to Mae, just nods
Beyond her face toward bright applauding tiers
Of Necco Wafers, Nibs, and Juju Beads.
-John Updike
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In my last post over one week ago, I signed off with a limerick that had deaf and blind policemen and a quote from Ringo Starr. It seems Bangkok got some of the former but not much peace since we left on January 15th, 2014 for Luang Prabang, Laos.

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We flew into Luang Prabang airport via Bangkok Airways on a twin prop 72 seater, which had 45 on board. Flight time was a little under 2 hours – a smooth flight – cost per person from Bangkok bt 11,000 round trip.
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Guest houses can be had for $10 US a night. The highend goes for $150-$200 US. I took the middle path again and got a river view ground floor with front yard for bt 1,100 per night plus 20% tax or right around $40 US per night.

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As I commented on my Facebook account, you have to appreciate a Buddhist country with a communist history, which has guest houses that put The Holy Bible alongside John Burdett’s BANGKOK 8. First impressions were all favorable of Laos. But it was early into trip.
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The first day we got up before the roosters out front were crowing, about 5:45 a.m. to see the monk procession receiving morning alms which Luang Prabang is known for. A when in Rome event but one that did not dissapoint as the Bangkok political unrest caused a dip in tourist arrivals. Less is more, big time, in this case.
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We’ll have to leave the foot masseuse as a Flash Gordon cliff hanger. I’m writing this post on my Google Nexus 5 phone. As much as I love the phone the internet speed at the French bakery and coffee shop is too slow to continue much longer.
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On the second day a foot massage was in order. At one point I asked the masseuse whatshe thought of her Chinese neighbors? “Here is better”, she said. I have to concur with her wisdom for right now. At the same time, I hope the politicos in Bangkok start listening to Ringo Starr, soon, before things go from bad to worse.
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Our planned six night stay in Luang Prabang has been extended, by choice, to thirteen. Five more to go. Another post will come before I return to the uncertainity of Bangkok, which is now under a State of Emergency for the remainder of 60 days. Life goes on, slowly, in Luang Prabang.

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Since I am on vacation here is a reblog of an interview of Timothy Hallinan, creator of the Poke Rafferty series set in Bangkok by noir author, Paul D. Brazil. Two authors I can recommend unequivocally. I have too as they both ignored my requests for money …

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I am off for at least a week beginning tomorrow, leaving the country. Everyone seems to have an opinion on the Thailand political situation. Over 50 years ago my Dad used to recite the limerick below to me, many times. At the time I thought he was the most brilliant man in the world, any time I heard it. To me it explains the political situation in Thailand as well as anything.

OneBrightDay

One bright day

In the middle of the night

Two dead boys got up to fight

Back to back, they faced each other

Drew their swords and shot each each other

A deaf policeman heard that noise

And came and killed those two dead boys

If you do not believe it’s true

Just ask the blind policeman

He saw it too

This is a time in Thailand to break out a quote by my favorite Beatle, Ringo Starr, “Peace and love, baby. Peace and love.” It’s worth a try.

Ringo+Starr

This post may also be seen at Chiang Mai City News by clicking the link below

CityLife

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