Thailand Footprint: The People, Things, Literature, and Music of Thailand and the Region

Posts by Kevin Cummings

Book

“I cannot remember the books I’ve read any more than the meals I have eaten; even so, they have made me.” — Ralph Waldo Emerson

“Read the best books first, or you may not have a chance to read them at all.” — Henry David Thoreau

“Good friends, good books and a sleepy conscience: this is the ideal life.” — Mark Twain

“When I look back, I am so impressed again with the life-giving power of literature. If I were a young person today, trying to gain a sense of myself in the world, I would do that again by reading, just as I did when I was young.” — Maya Angelou

“You think your pain and your heartbreak are unprecedented in the history of the world, but then you read. It was books that taught me that the things that tormented me most were the very things that connected me with all the people who were alive, or who had ever been alive.” — James Baldwin

“Books are a uniquely portable magic.” — Stephen King

“I think we ought to read only the kind of books that wound or stab us. If the book we’re reading doesn’t wake us up with a blow to the head, what are we reading for? So that it will make us happy, as you write? Good Lord, we would be happy precisely if we had no books, and the kind of books that make us happy are the kind we could write ourselves if we had to. But we need books that affect us like a disaster, that grieve us deeply, like the death of someone we loved more than ourselves, like being banished into forests far from everyone, like a suicide. A book must be the axe for the frozen sea within us. That is my belief.” – Franz Kafka

“I still love books. Nothing a computer can do can compare to a book. You can’t really put a book on the Internet. Three companies have offered to put books by me on the Net, and I said, ‘If you can make something that has a nice jacket, nice paper with that nice smell, then we’ll talk.’ All the computer can give you is a manuscript. People don’t want to read manuscripts. They want to read books. Books smell good. They look good. You can press it to your bosom. You can carry it in your pocket.”  – Ray Bradbury

“If you only read the books that everyone else is reading, you can only think what everyone else is thinking.” –Haruki Murakami

“I would never read a book if it were possible for me to talk half an hour with the man who wrote it.” – Woodrow Wilson

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HANGMAN’S POINT is an historical tale set on the British Island of Hong Kong during a continuous period of a little more than two weeks, in the year 1857. It has everything you need to keep your interest: A tavern named the Bee Hive with an actual bee hive nailed above the door, drunken sailors – who break out in song at times, an opium addicted Chinese baker, a high society Chinese pawn broker, British women in their colonial dress, romance aplenty, harbour views, harbored criminals, ships of all shapes and sizes, cannons real and made of wood, pirate battles, a lengthy murder trial presided over by a cigar chomping judge and one of the better one-sided cat-fights I can ever recall reading. Mixed in are the various classes of British Hong Kong – upper, lower and everything in-between – Chinese, British, American and more, all done with meticulous detail for historical accuracy; I learned a lot. The narrative is mostly told through the central character of Andrew Adams, an American tavern keeper, weapons smuggler, non-conformist and gambler whom is wrongly accused of murder in the course of his fortnight adventure. HANGMAN’S POINT is narrative rich and character rich, which makes it a dense but enjoyable read, even at 540 pages. Author Dean Barrett seems to be in touch with his masculine side, feminine side and “foreign devil” side as the narrative is told from many colorful and believable points of view. An example of the Barrett narrative as told by the conniving British widow as she describes her on-the-side lover who doubles as the antagonist, Ryker:

He could be the most attentive man she had ever known and within minutes, his dark thoughts could transform him into a cold-blooded killer with no more feelings for a woman than a lost anchor.

Hangman's Point - Cover for Ebook

This is exactly the kind of book I would normally not read, which makes the enjoyment of the ride all the better. What I want at the end of a long read like HANGMAN’S POINT is a satisfying conclusion with no loose ends. I got that and more. This is a smart book with smart writing, written by a smart author. It will, no doubt, be read 100 years from now, causing readers of the future to GoogleX Dean Barrett in their searchable wraparound eye-glasses. Won’t that be fun for them what they find? This was a Kindle bargain at $2.99 but I later sought out the hardcover as this one belongs on a bookshelf, preferably made of thick plank wood. And that is where my copy stands now. I look forward to the sequel, THIEVES HAMLET, which should be out in early 2014 if not sooner.

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Far better is it to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure… than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much, because they live in a gray twilight that knows not victory nor defeat. – Theodore Roosevelt

Melissa Ray, Ph.D

Melissa Ray, Ph.D (Photograph by Eric Nelson)

Two days ago I had the distinct pleasure to spend the afternoon at Eminent Air Boxing Gym in Bangkok talking with Muay Thai Champion Melissa Ray, in the best possible environment I could imagine. We had a wide ranging back and forth conversation on many topics. Melissa has held four different Championship Belts during her career and has retired due to injuries in 2011. She has recently taken up training again. Where it will lead is uncertain but she is healthy enough to reconnect with her passion, which is Muay Thai. Her CV includes a Ph.D in neuroscience as well as professional Muay Thai fights in seven different countries.

Melissa and I talked about winning and losing, rivals, the psychology of a rematch, the East vs West way of looking at competition, athletic careers and what makes a good one and the wai kru ceremony at the beginning of each match where the fighters pay respect to their teachers. We also talked about living in Thailand as a farang; what it is like to choose the road less traveled and how, sometimes, not everyone back in your home country is understanding and supportive when you take that road. During the course of our conversation I was reminded of one of the most influential books I have ever read – at the age of 11 years old – about one of my favorite athletes. It was written in 1965 about Rhodes scholar and Princeton All American basketball player, Bill Bradley by John McPhee. Its title: A SENSE OF WHERE YOU ARE. I left with a belief that Melissa Ray has an awareness and an appreciation of where she has been, where she is and who she has become due to the competitive sport of professional Muay Thai. I would later learn that her favorite book when growing up was another from the 1960s: TO KILL A MOCKINGBIRD written, not surprisingly, by a literary female champion, Harper Lee. Thailand Footprint is pleased to welcome Muay Ying, Melissa Ray.

MelissaRayVictory

Melissa Ray wins her first of four Championships in a rematch with Praewa Sor Penprapa. You can read the details of the history of this fight at http://muaythaionthebrain.com/2012/10/16/big-gambling/

TF Thank-you, Melissa for agreeing to be interviewed. Where did you study for your Ph.D and what is it in?

MR I studied for my PhD in Neuroscience – the study of the brain – at Newcastle University, UK. During my research project I used various laboratory techniques to analyse human brain sections for the levels of the neuronal nicotinic acetylcholine receptor, comparing normal healthy cases with patients with Alzheimer’s disease, dementia with Lewy bodies, Parkinson’s disease and autism.

TF   When did you first come to Thailand? How long was it before you stepped into a Muay Thai gym and what was it, exactly, that hooked you on the sport?

This way to Eminent Air Boxing Gym

This way to Eminent Air Boxing Gym

MR My first ever visit to Thailand was a short trip in 2005, when I competed in the WMF World Amateur Championships in Bangkok. I first came to Thailand on a longer term basis in May 2006.

I first tried out Muay Thai in my early twenties. It was a Muay Thai class held at a sports centre rather than in an actual Muay Thai gym. As a sufferer of polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS), I have always had some issues with my weight (as described in my blog post Hormones and Muay Thai), and a typical unhealthy student lifestyle during my first degree had not helped my condition. I decided to try out Muay Thai after resolving to lose some pounds and was hooked from day one. I was never particularly interested in sports as a child or teenager but somehow Muay Thai captured my imagination. I loved the endorphin rush I got from the vigorous exercise and the release of aggression when hitting the pads. And sparring appealed to my competitive side, I suppose. I was also fascinated by the cultural aspects of the sport, including the “wai kru”—a ritual dance performed before a fight to pay respect to one’s teachers and family members.

Muay Thai fighter, Melissa Ray in the ring.

Muay Thai fighter, Melissa Ray in the ring.

TF  I heard that females are not allowed to compete at some of the big arenas, like Lumphini, if true, why is that? Is it politics? Will that change in the future do you think?

MR Women are not allowed to compete (or even touch the ring) at stadiums such as Lumpini, Rajadamnern, Channel 7 and Omnoi because of age-old superstitions and beliefs that women are unlucky. Apparently, these beliefs were reinforced in the 60’s or 70’s, when a female journalist stepped into the ring at Rajadamnern and several boxers were seriously injured that night. I do think there will eventually be change and that women will be allowed to compete in the major stadiums in Thailand, but that could be some years away. The current Lumpini Boxing Stadium is scheduled to be demolished in 2014 and a new stadium in under construction in Ramintra Road. My hope is that women might, at some point, be allowed to fight at the new venue. Such a change would really symbolize progress for women’s Muay Thai.

Melissa Ray at her home away from home, Eminent AIr Boxing Gym

Melissa Ray at her home away from home, Eminent Air Boxing Gym

TF Tell me about competing on The King and Queen’s birthday’s – that must have been quite an honor – tell us about the atmosphere, the environment.

MR Considering the restrictions placed on where we are allowed to compete in Thailand, I believe that for a female Muay Thai fighter, to fight on a King or Queen’s birthday event at Sanam Luang is the highest honour, and there is no better venue for atmosphere and exposure. On these dates, the entire Rattanakosin area would be swarming with people paying respects to their monarchs, with the streets adorned with light displays, and various stages set up for musical and dance performances. The area where the Muay Thai fights were held would tend to be rather chaotic, and there would often be last minute changes to the program order, but the disorganisation kind of added to the energy. The crowd would always provide an enthusiastic reception to a spirited fighting display, regardless of a fighter’s sex or nationality.

Professional Muay Ying, Melissa Ray in a 5 Round Match

Professional Muay Ying, Melissa Ray against her Thai opponent  Jomyuyting Kiat Nor Vor  in a Queens Birthday bout at Sanam Luang Arena

TF How long did you compete, what titles did you hold and why did you retire and to where?

MR I think I competed for about 8 years in total (from my first amateur bout to my last bout in June 2011). I won the WPMF 126lb title, the S-1 126lb title, the WMA 57kg title and another WPMF title at 126lb. I also won silver medals in the amateur European and World WMF championships. I stopped fighting because of two relatively serious injuries. First I tore a group of tendons in my arm (requiring surgery), then I tore a posterior cruciate ligament (no surgery but a long rehabilitation). The knee injury sent me back to the UK for 5 months last year but fortunately I was able to return “home” in December 2012.

Melissa Ray Four Belts

Melissa Ray with her Four Championship Belts

TF What question do you most hate being asked and why?

MR I have always hated answering questions about my record. My record is not perfect (41 professional fights with 27W, 13L, 1D, by the way)—I can admit to having had good and bad days in the ring. In the West, people can be quite judgemental about records; however, I don’t believe a boxer’s fight record necessarily provides an accurate reflection of their fighting abilities. For example, a friend of mine has had a few losses in a row against top Thais in his weight division. Another fighter might have had a string of easy KO wins against lesser opponents but—according to his record—looks the better fighter on paper. People say you learn more from a loss than from a win and that’s certainly true. I’ve also heard people that if you’re only winning fights, you’re not fighting good enough opponents. That also can be true in some cases.

Another aspect a record doesn’t reflect is when a boxer may have had to take fights when he/she was carrying an injury or suffering/recovering from an illness. It’s not always easy to pull out of fights because of the hassle it creates for the promoters and the gym. For the Thais, financial obligations might also come into it—no fight means no purse for the boxer, and no income for the gym.

Melissa Ray corner

TF With your educational background I am going to guess that reading was important to you at an early age. Tell me about your earliest memories of reading and what books stand out among the ones you have read? Do you have time for reading now?

MR  Very much so. I can remember every Saturday during my childhood my Mum, siblings and I would catch the bus into the town centre to visit the library, and I would take out the maximum 5 books to read within the week. I was extremely studious at school and my parents would encourage (bribe?!) me to do well in my end of year exams by paying me some money for every A grade. When I was growing up my favourite book was To Kill a Mockingbird. Now I rarely have time for reading for pleasure—maybe only when travelling, when I don’t want anything too demanding on the brain. The last book that made a lasting impression on me and I would highly recommend reading was “Bounce: The Myth of Talent and the Power of Practice”, which includes personal experiences from the author (an ex-table tennis player), as well as elements of sports science and psychology.

Gloves

TF  What did you do to replace the void of Muay Thai when your injuries occured – when you couldn’t go to the gym and get that endorphin rush?

MR When I had my knee injury I started my blog Muay Thai on the Brain. I think writing about Muay Thai helped me to deal with not being able to participate in the sport. Now my knee has much improved and I take every opportunity I can to train, so my writing has been rather neglected of late! Although I have not fought in two years, Muay Thai very much remains a major part of my life and I can’t imagine ever choosing not to be involved in it.

Melissa Ray (right) and other members of a very exclusive club

Melissa Ray (right) during a promotional photo shoot in China – one of the seven (7) countries she has fought in.

TF Professional writers often use the boxing ring as a metaphor for life. Everyone admires and respects people whom do the hard work, which is necessary to get into the ring; those that take their swings and can take a hit. Those participants that get knocked down but keep getting up. We cheer our champions and we root for the underdog. You’ve actually done and been all those things and I commend you for it. Thank-you, Melissa for sharing your world of Muay Thai with me here at Eminent Air Boxing Gym.  It is such an important part of the culture in Thailand. It will remain a memorable day for me.  I wish you well with your training and good luck in avoiding any future injuries.

MR Thank-you, Kevin.

Melissa Ray picture at Eminent AIr Gym

Melissa Ray’s picture hangs prominently at Eminent Air Boxing Gym

For a very informative blog on Muay Thai and updates on the progress of Melissa Ray’s training please visit Muay Thai on the Brain – Musings of a Muay Thai Fanatic by clicking on the banner picture, below:

-muay-thai-

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Navigating the Bangkok Noir by Chris Coles

Navigating the Bangkok Noir by Chris Coles

I remember discovering the art of Chris Coles over 10 years ago. My first thought was: this guy seems interesting. Nobody is doing what he is doing. Dozens had written about the Bangkok Night before and dozens have written about it since, but in the 21st Century, Chris Coles has been the indisputable leader in painting the darkness and the neon of Bangkok’s notorious night paths.

But he does more than paint. He provides the quintessential social commentary needed with every colored frame. Chris Coles is to Bangkok Noir as Gary Trudeau was to Washington D.C. politics. The efficiency of what he gets across with the written word is classic story telling, usually with conflict involved, not often with catharsis.

Like many great artists, Chris Coles is misunderstood at times. There are some that see him as a proponent or cheerleader for the pay for play sex industry in Thailand. Not true. Chris has merely been making an extensive documentary in his art for over a decade.

The word prolific is overused but it is not overstated in his case. In NAVIGATING THE BANGKOK NOIR the very best of Chris Coles over 1,000 paintings have been selected. There are dozens of Chris Coles expressionist paintings to be found here, along with his equally colorful descriptive narrative. Since the book has been published, Chris continues to paint religiously about a subject that never leaves him lacking for inspiration.

Christopher G. Moore writes an excellent Forward to the book explaining the world of noir that Chris Coles captures so well.

And what is a noir artist? To paraphrase noir writer, Paul D. Brazill, it is one that paints the world with light and pitch black shadows.

I have no idea which authors will be remembered best in the 22nd Century for having written about the Bangkok night in the early 21st Century, if any at all. But I have a sneaking suspicion that the legacy of Chris Coles, the art of Chris Coles and the words of Chris Coles will linger well into the 22nd Century and beyond. His art, his documentary will be a reminder of a dark time. A time that once was and never will be, exactly, that way, again.

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Note: For those wishing to see more paintings by Chris Coles go to the Home Page and scroll down to the post about poet John Gartland or use the search box for Chris Coles. 

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BangkokRulespaperback_cover_fb

I finished reading Bangkok Rules, recently, the debut novel by Bangkok expatriate, Harlan Wolff. A good, quick read, which I completed in less than 24 hours. It is a familiar but entertaining tale: the hard drinking, cynical private investigator in a foreign land – the land being Thailand and the city, Bangkok for the most part. But it has its uniqueness too.

Carl Engel is the smart P.I. Smart enough not to pay rent for an office, when the lobby and staff of a 5 Star hotel will meet all his needs. A longtime Bangkok expat whom drives a classic red Porsche, which has taken him around the block more than a few times and given him the needed education that goes with that ride. Carl is suspicious enough of humans that he finishes his drink in any Bangkok haunt before he heads to the head – a practical practice in Bangkok City. His taste in music leans toward classical, with Puccini operas being his preferred mood setting story. He quotes Mark Twain and can be found reading Hemingway’s DEATH IN THE AFTERNOON when others would be worrying about something – like staying alive. He’s typical in some ways, complex in others. Self aware and self disciplined. And he can cook a good Italian meal. There is a lot to like about this Bangkok based protagonist.

As debut novels go, this one is top notch. BANGKOK RULES seemed to have created more buzz than most debut novels, so I was curious to see if Harlan Wolff can tell a good yarn or not. He can, in my opinion, which any cynic will realize, (and any critic should realize) is not worth much – the opinion not the yarn. He’s got some issues with America and Americans, but we can forgive him for that – most people do, nowadays, and at least he likes our breakfasts and our authors. This novel is a thriller, not a who dunnit, so that element is absent but it does not detract from the pace of the story. It has a good beginning third and a great ending third. The middle third, always the tough part, was a bit slow at times but Wolff takes that portion to give us good details, large and small, about life in Thailand. The final third had the best dialogue. An example of Harlan’s writing when his friend asks him why he likes opera so much?

“It’s about the real things, the important things; life, love, relationships, loss, death. In real life there are no happy endings, George. Happy endings are a con trick …”

His narrative captures Bangkok as only a handful of authors can. An example of a scene when Carl and company are holed up in a short time Bangkok no-tell room: They drank most of the whisky then slept, drunk, with their clothes on under the mirrored ceiling.

His cynicism comes with self reflection. Carl is judgmental but at least he knows he’s judgmental. Another example:

Carl’s awareness of the duality of people killed any possibility of taking strangers at face value. Every time he thought he was being unnecessarily judgmental, something, like dead people in morgues, would prevent him from changing his mind.

I liked Bangkok Rules. I tend to like Bangkok fiction but I like it to be written well. Bangkok Rules is good in a proven formula way, with smart writing, good characters and decent settings throughout. My favorite setting was the wooden estate, located outside of Bangkok, used to shoot a popular Thai soap opera, involving ghosts, right before the well written finale. Poker players should particularly like this tale because Carl tends to beat the odds when they are stacked against him.

I’m giving this one 4 Stars, for many reasons, mostly because those are the ones most people read and believe anyway and because, I can.

I get the feeling Carl Engel and Harlan Wolff are a lot alike. If I ever meet Harlan, I’d tell him I very much enjoyed his debut novel. But he’s probably sharp enough about expat lingo and the duality of man that what I really mean is, “I hope you don’t make too much money too soon – because then I’d wish I’d written Bangkok Rules.” Best of luck on the sequel to Harlan Wolff, which has been set up nicely.

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Editor’s Note: This is a special guest column at The Auburn Journal by Kevin Cummings, who played varsity basketball for the Placer Hillmen from 1970 to 1972. (Further note: republished here at Thailand Footprint because The Auburn Journal website is not accessible from Thailand and because it was a source of inspiration for this blog- originally published 12/26/12).

Kevin Cummings with Placer High School legendary basketball coach, Tom Barry.

Kevin Cummings with Placer High School legendary basketball coach, Tom Barry.

I had last seen coach Tom Barry in 1989, when he was the vice principal at Del Oro High School. When I spotted him in the Del Oro High parking lot at that time, I had some apprehension that comes with the plan to make an unannounced visit to your old varsity basketball coach.
“Mr. Barry!” I yelled.
He turned, recognized me immediately, smiled, and said, “Kevin, how are you? Come into my office. Let’s talk.” (This was the only time I had ever looked forward to a trip to the vice principal’s office.)
I am Kevin Cummings, and I had the good fortune to be the starting 6-foot-6 center for two Tom Barry-coached varsity basketball seasons from 1970 to 1972, including the 1971-72 team season, that went 26-3. The Auburn Journal, during the 1997 centennial celebration of Placer High, named that team as having been, arguably, the best basketball team in the 100-year history of the school. (I like that word, arguably, as it allows for other possibilities.)

The team featured familiar Auburn names: Larry Prewitt at power forward, Alton Caesar at shooting forward, Marty Evers at defensive guard and one of Placer High’s all-time greats, junior point guard Jim Hardey. In two varsity seasons, the five of us would never know what it felt like to lose a game at storied Earl Crabbe Gym. The reason for that was coach Barry.

Picture that hung behind Tom Barry's desk

Picture that hung behind Tom Barry’s desk

When I entered Mr. Barry’s office in 1989, there was a huge picture behind his desk depicting a game-ending celebration of our 1970-71 team victory over Roseville High that had secured another league title for Barry and the Hillmen. At one point in the 1970s, Mr. Barry coached the Placer Hillmen to six straight league championships. Ours was a great visit in 1989. It went all too quickly, however, and we vowed to do it again soon.

Soon has a way of flying by all too fast. At some point you realize that your time, like everyone else’s, is limited, and you want to let the people who mattered in your life know that they mattered. So it was that, on Sept. 15, 2012, during a trip to Auburn, I called Tom Barry. He was delighted to hear from me and gave me directions to his house. That visit would be different from the one in 1989. This time I had come to repay a debt — a debt of gratitude.

When I pulled up in front of Mr. Barry’s beautiful home, he came to greet my wife and me. As I got out of the car, we both smiled broadly. We shook hands warmly. I said, “Chic told me I could call you Tom now. But I am not sure it is going to be that easy.” I had always called him Mr. Barry during practice. Always. I had earlier in the day seen Chic Wallgren, Tom’s assistant coach and my junior varsity basketball coach. Without men like Chic and Tom, my adult world would have been far less rich — and I am not speaking in monetary terms.

If you are not familiar with Tom Barry, I would describe him as part Bill Walsh, part Arnold Palmer — not the kind of coach you would pour Gatorade on, and yet very comfortable in his own skin. He was John Wooden-like in his approach to the game, but only out of coincidence, not by imitation. To Mr. Barry, no one player was ever more important than the team. Mr. Barry did not command respect. Respect toward him came easily.

Check Taylor Converse ceramic shoe

Chuck Taylor Converse ceramic shoe

What I brought Mr. Barry that day was a two-foot long by 10-inch high ceramic art piece of a Converse Chuck Taylor white high-top basketball shoe — the type of shoe we had played in for Tom. It had been, arguably, my most prized possession, given to me by my mother for Christmas in 1970. It had been the centerpiece at the basketball awards dinner held in 1972, and had traveled everywhere I had gone for 42 years. It now has a new home — a home in which it belongs.
We traded lots of stories, laughs and smiles that day — stories from the past of events that helped get us to the present. Tom is 75 years old now and looks tan and terrific. The lessons he taught and I learned we still remember, fondly, after all these years. He told me I could visit him and the shoe any time. I plan to.
If you have a coach or teacher who taught you lessons in life that stuck with you and whom you have not talked to or seen in a while, think about picking up the phone and making a call. Repay those debts of gratitude. You will be the richer for it, and so will your mentor.
On that there can be no argument.

Kevin Cummings is now president of DepoSums.com He lives in Santa Cruz.

2018 Placer High School Athletic Hall of Fame – First Boys Basketball Team inducted in the 120 year history of the school.

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John Gartland (Photo by Eric Nelson)

John Gartland (Photo by Eric Nelson)

Bangkok is full of interesting expatriates. Foreigners choosing to make Thailand their home for a variety of reasons. John Gartland is one such interesting expat. John was born in Warrington in Northern England. He graduated with honors in English from Newcastle University and has a master’s degree in Elizabethan drama. He has spent time in the United States, has worked in the government sector, in the telecommunications business, as a rock n’ roll music producer and as a college lecturer and professor. He has recently returned to live in Bangkok a second time after being Visiting Professor of English Writing at Korea National University of Education , and  Lecturer in English at  Bayan University College in Muscat.

Gravity's Fool - Poems by John Gartland

Gravity’s Fool – Poems by John Gartland

John Gartland is a published novelist and poet. Thailand Footprint is pleased to showcase some of his poems today along with the art of Chris Coles as well as photographs by Bangkok photographers, Eric Nelson and Aroon Thaewchatturat.

Portrait of poet, John Gartland by Bangkok Noir artist, ChrisColes

Portrait of poet, John Gartland by Bangkok Noir artist, Chris Coles

The Company of Poets

You’ve heard a kind of clown
dismissing poetry,
as rarefied and precious, not real life;
till, cut and sliced by love’s
exquisite and inexorable knife,
he’ll find the bottle comfortless enough,
and fumble in his misery for rhyme.

Still craving for some vanished stuff of rapture,
attempting to contain the heart’s decline,
and learning there’s no science that will capture
or can resurrect a passion. It’s a sign that life
will seek out rhythms, incantations, dreams,
to celebrate its stature, and to wonder at itself.
Each dances, in his fashion, to that driving score it seems;
but poets live the fuller, by their nature, beating time.

And I’ll seek out the company of poets,
the company of poets I’ll make mine.
When poetry has bitten you you’ll know it;
it’s just an arc of words but in the overall design
of things, there’s everything in life laid out below it;
from birth to love, and death, and celebration;
and before the robot reaper can consign
you to your headstone you will ride imagination’s
launcher high above the milling cities,
be the Process speaking, for a time.

So I’ll seek out the company of poets,
the company of poets I’ll make mine.
They’re taking passion’s pulse
and they are signaling the future,
they’ve freedom for a mistress
and they’ve history for a tutor,
and they can image water into wine.
Each new day is their holy book,
and apparatchiks hate them
for scoffing at all priesthoods
while embracing the divine.
So give to me the company of poets,
the company of poets I’ll make mine.

Those black flags of mourning, who better to fly them?
The tender intrigues of the aspirant heart,
that life-shaking love that you have for your children,
how better to tell them? Where better to start?
Where else but the company of poets?
whose alchemical pilgrimage sets them apart…
Where else but the company of poets?

Those ephemeral fires of the beacon lights,
on the century’s headlands, glowing;
like poems, are markers we leave to rite
our passage and our going.
Bright seeds on the wind that flower despite
the perennial cloud of unknowing,
and they’re sown by the company of poets,
the indelible company of poets.

John Gartland

Soi Cowboy by Chris Coles now found hanging, prominently, at CheckInn99 in Bangkok

Soi Cowboy by Chris Coles now found hanging, prominently, at CheckInn99 in Bangkok

Chillin’

Judas hangs about in lost property,
channel hopping.
Reality Arena, Caligula’s TV hit,
has viewers congealed to their seats.
“It’s the same old bread and circuses shit”,
says Herod, still regal, on the Oprah show.
He’ll be networked once he’s out, you know,
a degree in demographics from an Open prison;
now, when he speaks the media listen.
But that’s old hat; there’s wall to wall promotion
on all stations for “Hits the murderers listened to.”
Can you get into that?
A six album set, if you didn’t steal it already.
“Suffer Little Children”, whispers Myra Hindley
and the social workers nod,
chillin!’.
“I’m immortal now”, croons De Troux,
“Let bygones be bygones”, says God,
“I’m chillin’, I’m chillin’”.

My cap’s on backwards, I mastered rhyme.
It ain’t complicated, so rap’s just fine,
I’m a tattooed mother’ and an arrogant swine,
I beat my bitch and she toes my line,
I’ve got a big shooter and I fuck with crime,
got jewels in my teeth and I done some time,
I’m rich, you can kiss my asinine,
I’m chillin’, I’m chillin’.

After this word from our sponsor,
Al Jazeera, embedded with the Taliban!
More amputations and beheadings, live,
and our token woman journalist who
reads the news at five. Commercial break,
a woman’s lips through an embroidered slot,
“Something for the weekend?”
Adultery and a drink will get you stoned,
Or maybe you forgot.
Relax! to a cool, fanatic vibe.
Sheikh, rattle and rolling heads,
no moderates are left alive.
The anchorman’s just chillin’. “Clive,
Reminds me of the view from the Republican
window at the old Rue Robespierre.
(These people can teach Europe nothing
about losing your head in a crisis!)”
And now at last we take you there,
To Isfahan, a missile silo filled with
Mullahs’ radioactive teeth,
to seed an unbelieving west.
With business confidence so low,
where else can you invest but Club Inferno,
fastest growing franchaise, and the best.
Four horsemen drinking margaritas in the bar,
chillin’. Scythes gleam in the umbrella stand.
Then, strikes up the band
behind the President’s address
on the State of Rape and Roll,
and everyone’s in lost property now,
to watch. With closing time at hand,
the speech is kind of droll,
and chillin’, really chillin’.

John Gartland

Chris Coles Landscape

Chris Coles Landscape

Bangkok De Profundis.

In a time of rising waters,
He has cried to thee oh Lord.
It was becoming hard to bear,
waking up each morning as a cockroach.
His junkie girlfriend stole the laptop,
the phone kept ringing at odd hours,
and insomniacs haunted him,
invading his rooms to smoke Old Delirium
in strange contraptions, fashioned
from detergent bottles and glass tubing.

False prophets network,
scares and admonitions,
“Seek shelter from the coming flood”
for markets fall, and pundits pall
like necromancers shocked by futures,
awed at stocks’ exposed positions.

More flashbacks of those corpses wrapped
in blood-stained sheets where Hades
meets Suwintawong highway,
and demons dressed as strutting cops
play out satanic games with car wrecks
and six lanes of hurtling pick-ups,
loaded with the damned.
Nothing stops, apart from hoping,
in that darkness;
hoping, and the grand design of God.

Years of debris; a throwaway world
is gagging his high watermark.
The residue of empires, dismembered ideologies,
gangrenous mullahs,
severed heads in doggie bags,
girls stoned to death by dumper truck
where high tech. serves Islamic rigour;
and women’s bodies, feared
and lashed with equal vigour,
float the septic tide to state,
that, rotting, raped and subjugate,
masked, or beauty acid-scarred,
this jealous hate redeems some family’s honour
and the keeping of a slave.

“Seek shelter from the coming flood!”.
More warnings from the networks
of disaster in plain sight.
Infected by the future
and recoiling from the light,
from the morning watch,
to subliminal night, Lord,
he channel-hops the ads. and lies,
awaits the blind inexorable wave.

Let thine ears be attentive
to the voice of his supplication.
Please take his urgent call oh Lord,
extend to him religion’s consolation.

Icons of old wizard monks,
expensive relics in a locket,
the sacred, decorated trunks of
twisted, bent, revered old trees,
an idol, or a totem,
or the fetish of of a prophet,
an amulet of Vishnu,
or a string of merit-making beads
to finger in a pocket.
A road map of the Tree of Life,
a prayer mat, sacrificial knife,
a sacred stone they venerate,
a holy spring where they prostrate,
and, chanting loudly, flagellate;
some mutilation rituals they find,
somehow express their
tortured, ingrown toenail of a mind.

To these they bow, by these they wait,
for heaven’s ultimate blind date;
hypnosis by a holy book,
subservience to a priestly look.

Yea Lord, he drinks a bitter cup,
deliverance eludes him yet.
The creator, playing hard to get,
has, once more, frankly, stood him up.

Manipulation, thought correction,
machiavellian misdirection.
Digesting God’s indifference,
inhaling insignificance,
in times of rising waters,
a Minoan maze of lies.

The sacred books, the king, the host,
those feet at which men grovel most;
the bloodstained flag, the Holy Ghost,
the biggest fairy tales require
most pious genuflection,
and these the thinking cockroach
will contemptuously despise.

Insomniac transexuals
are texting, seeking parts again.
Awake within the whispering walls,
illumination swirls and falls
to fractals in a pipe bulb,
when, aware God’s not returning calls,
or dealing absolution,
he crawls out of the depths, not least
to shun the poisonous fix of priests,
and charter his own flight to dissolution.

For, Lord, he’s turned his back upon
some name we may not utter
without slavish self-abasement,
the mediaeval violence policing laws of love;
a million milling zealots
trampling by their sacred monolith;
psychosis aping saintliness,
when push comes to fanatic shove.

And the globalised multiplex; virtual reality,
brand slaves on Prozac grazing the mall.
Where history simply is discarded fashion,
junk’s TV, rap culture, and soundbite celebrities,
mainlining cage fights, an armchair in hell.
In a time of rising waters,
He has cried to thee, oh Lord.

Last call for oblivion, welcome aboard.

Let thine ears be attentive… attentive oh Lord!

Last call for oblivion, darkness on board.

John Gartland

Female Guardian of the Bangkok Night by Chris Coles

Female Guardian of the Bangkok Night by Chris Coles

ANNA JET

Anna glides among the drinkers
and her girls at Anna Jet.
The customers pay tribute with their eyes.

Her girls are young,
available and beautiful, and yet,
as she irradiates the storyline
of evening with her smile,
and lets her hand rest lightly
on some shoulder for a while,
her backless dress of silken gold’s
as tight as gilt upon
an art collector’s statuette.

Her girls are young,
available, and beautiful and yet,
it’s Anna with her silken style
who dances in the memory
while we cross the floating world
to Anna Jet.

Hot night, the bar that’s open
to the dealings of the street,
the techno music, short time girls,
a DJ who is seemingly determined
to defeat our death in this
sublime apotheosis of the dance.

I think of Wagner talking about Beethoven
and glance at strangers who
are dancing on their naked lives.
Here in the floating world, the dream survives;
drink deep, and dance, and banish sleep
for Anna shines among her girls
like some erotic statuette,
and it’s always short time, you can bet,
golden short time.
And the bass is driving nails
into the past
in Anna Jet.

John Gartland

Farang in theBangkok Night by Chris Coles

Farang in the Bangkok Night by Chris Coles

GRAVITY’S FOOL

When she leaves me,

and I’m ordinary again,

a flickering filament,

a melancholy solo

in a wasted hour;

a speech without conviction

in an empty auditorium,

a cherry blossom bough

that will not flower.

When she leaves,

this falling rocket coughs,

its motor won’t restart.

I’m gravity’s fool again;

just ordinary debris

destined soon to fall apart.

And her absences,

like tree rings,

all her absences

will show,

that day they open

my abandoned heart.

John Gartland

Bangkok Noir Artist, Chris Coles prepares for presentation - Photo by  Aroon Thaewchattura

Bangkok Noir Artist, Chris Coles prepares for presentation – Photo by Aroon Thaewchattura

For more information about the Poetry of John Gartland please visit Poetry Universe by clicking the photograph of John, below:

John Gartland on Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok (Photo by Eric Nelson)

John Gartland on Sukhumvit Road with some of the characters found in the Bangkok night. (Photo by Eric Nelson)

For more information regarding the art of Chris Coles, please visit: http://www.chriscolesgallery.com/ or his excellent blog, BANGKOK NOIR, consistently voted one of the Top Two Blog’s in all of Bangkok by clicking the Chris Coles painting below:

Farang Fashion Designer at Q-Bar by Chris Coles

Farang Fashion Designer at Q-Bar by Chris Coles

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Henry Miller Portrait by Fabrizio Cassetta

Henry Miller Portrait by Fabrizio Cassetta available at Fine Art America in various formats. Click portrait for more information

One’s destination is never a place, but rather a new way of looking at things.

Henry Miller (1957). Big Sur and the Oranges of Hieronymus Bosch

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JazzonSuhkumvit

Yesterday, I went to the historic Bangkok Cabaret bar, CheckInn99, which has a colorful history that dates back to the 1960s and had a 1970s flashback – the good kind. In 1979 on a Sunday my best friend left after spending the weekend in San Francisco, where I was living at the time. After he left, on a whim, I went into a comedy club in the Richmond district of San Francisco. On that Sunday there was an improvisational comedy group doing their thing and they were doing it well. I commented to the guy next to me, in the not particularly crowded bar called The Holy City Zoo, “That guy looks like Robin Williams.” The response was, “That’s because it is Robin Williams.” The rest of the evening was spent watching greatness and it wasn’t all Robin; they were all great and improvisational comedy is a tough nut to be great at.

robin-williams-3

There is another art form that requires improvising, talent, teamwork and unselfishness. It’s called Jazz. To listen to jazz was the goal yesterday when I met a friend to check out the Sunday Jazz on Sukhumvit series that has been going on at CheckInn99  for about four months now. I have no good reason for not going earlier. Shame on me but I am very glad I went yesterday.

Whether it is comedy, basketball or music when you are in the presence of greatness it’s evident. It’s obvious. So it was yesterday; among the talented group of jazz performers that rotated in and out, just like a winning basketball team, was leading scorer and trumpet player Steve Cannon, whom played every minute.

SteveCannon

To be in an uncrowded, intimate setting at an historic venue, as I was at the now defunct Holy City Zoo, when I saw Robin Williams is something you never forget. Likewise to find a trumpet player the caliber of Steve Cannon playing on a Sunday afternoon at a place where Bob Hope used to frequent is also a day to remember.

Steve Cannon and a talented group of jazz musicians at CheckInn99

Steve Cannon and a talented group of jazz musicians at CheckInn99

Steve’s musical credits are too numerous to list in this post but a partial list includes: piano playing comedian Steve Allen, The Clarence “Gatemouth” Brown Big Band, Mary Wilson and the Supremes, The Temptations, The Four Tops, The Spinners, Frankie Valle and the Four Seasons, and the Fifth Dimension. He produced  his debut CD, NOWHERE MAN in 1999. His 2006 CD, the award winning release, FULL BLOWN by Steve Cannon and the Blow Hard Big Band was named “2006 Best Album of the Year” by “All About Jazz” Magazine. Steve is also among an elite group of jazz musicians that performed a command performance for His Majesty the King of Thailand. And anyone that lives in Thailand knows full well the high regard King Bhumibol has for jazz. The Jazzy King, as he has been referred to, once played side by side with Benny Goodman.

King and Goodman

I love living in Bangkok, Thailand for many reasons. The diversity and talent of the expat community is just one. After two long stints in Los Angeles, CA and Portland, Oregon Steve Cannon now calls Bangkok his home. Steve can be found performing regularly with his piano playing brother, Randy Cannon at the internationally acclaimed “Living Room” jazz club in the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Hotel in Bangkok. I will seek out Steve and his brother’s band soon at that venue.

Steve Cannon at CheckInn99 Sunday Afternoon Jazz Series

Steve Cannon alongside William Wait at CheckInn99 Sunday Afternoon Jazz Series

In the meantime, anyone that appreciates good jazz music and the somewhat limited options that exist in Bangkok should make a visit to the Jazz on Sukhumvit series on Sunday afternoon from 2:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. at CheckInn99. You never know when greatness decides to make an appearance.

CheckInn99Bogie

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Wat Phra Non Chak Si Worawihan

Wat Phra Non Chak Si Worawihan

TF Eric, I am pleased to welcome you here at Thailand Footprint. I have just spent the last 30 minutes looking at a file of your photographs and I came away thoroughly impressed. The hardest part of this interview, I can already tell, will be selecting the 12 photographs I plan to run. I also have many questions for you, so here goes: Tell me about your interest in photography. How it started. How long you have been doing it. Has it been an avocation, a vocation or both?

Spirit House

Spirit House

EN Thank you Kevin, I’m excited to talk with you today.

My interest in photography came from an odd place. As a kid, I was an avid malacologist, i.e. collector and studier of specimen sea shells and the animals in them, buying from dealers all over the world. I wanted to do a slide presentation using the specimens I had in my collection at the time. My dad had a 35mm camera and tripod so I did a simple setup and photographed them. My interest in photography grew and the relationship between photography and shell collecting was a symbiotic one for a time till photography became my main interest. I no longer collect, and haven’t for over 40 years as the ocean needs all it’s animals intact, but I still have an extensive collection.

Photography has been both a vocation and an avocation, but for the last 30 years it’s mainly been a vocation and I’ve worked in many parts of the photo industry from commercial labs to photo journalism to studio, location, and stock photography and lastly owning and operating a custom B&W lab service in Chicago for 21 years, Archival Custom Printing- (ACP).

Barber with Mother at shop

Bangkok barber and mom at shop

TF  I was particularly struck by your photographs of Thailand and neighboring countries. I’d like to focus on three: Thailand; Myanmar and Cambodia. How are they similar and how are they different? How much time have you spent in Myanmar vs Cambodia?

Buddhists Monks proceed in Myanmar

Buddhists Monks proceed in Myanmar 

EN Of the 3 places you asked about, Myanmar is the most different from Thailand.  I don’t speak a word of Burmese but my Thai and English got me by somewhat.  People will smile back at you here in Thailand but in Myanmar they don’t.  They seemed more serious in some respects, seemed being the operative word there.
There’s something about the light there that’s different than Cambodia and Thailand.  Just like how in a place like New Mexico where the light has always been lauded, Myanmar’s light is somehow different than other SEA countries.  I liked shooting there a lot, but my trip was pretty short and insulated to make any more specific comparisons.  I’ve spent a total of 2 weeks in Cambodia at this point.
Cambodia’s light seemed a bit harsh even in the morning with haze, but mornings and evenings here in Thailand are great for shooting.  By getting shots with “window” light such as in the noodle shop image, one can escape the harsh look of midday sun here.
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Noddle shop located on Sukhumvit 101

Noodle shop located on Sukhumvit 101

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TF Tell me about Chicago, where you lived for many years, from a photographer’s perspective?
EN When I was in Chicago, the city became old and ugly to me and uninteresting photographically.  Many others will disagree and that’s great as there are photo opportunities there for those who can see them.  I just could not.  I think that can happen if you live somewhere too long.  I’ve always traveled to SEA just to shoot; for myself and for stock photography.  I’ve always been drawn to Asia with my camera.  5 months of the year in Chicago is inhospitable for shooting outside whether it be rain, snow or the cold.  I did a lot of studio shooting during my time there.
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Fisherman's Canal - Chicago

Michael Moore lookalike at Fisherman’s Canal – Chicago

TF  What is it about Bangkok that makes it such a fertile place to take photographs – how would you explain it? Help  others understand what makes it so great?

EN The key, I believe, is to get out each day, and see things with new eyes, like one newly arrived.  I don’t believe it is a bad thing at all as it keeps your vision fresh and one’s self interested.

Bangkok and Thailand for that matter is a great shooting destination.  Personally, I’m not that interested in shooting well known spots. One should go to the Grand Palace and so on once in their life for sure, but I’ve no inclination to return to well known “family vacation” destinations for my photography.  I find that almost any street here will do nicely.  There will be someone or something one can shoot.  People here are genuinely cooperative if not downright happy when I ask to take their photograph.  All one has to do is just go for a walk in your neighborhood and you’ll find fascinating things to shoot.  I’ve just moved to a new neighborhood and I’m looking forward to getting out and shooting here as there’s a large Muslim population and diverse groups of people living all around me.

Modes of transport here also fascinate me.  The boats and motocy taxis aren’t found in the US and where we have them (specifically boats) they are not utilitarian and geared more often to tourists.  In S.E.A. it’s just another way to get around and I love it.  I don’t drive here and hate even being a passenger in a car here.  I much prefer any other method to get places if it’s safe.  Those are opportunities to see the streets  and life in general in a different way instead of in an air con car w/tinted windows.  That and the fear-inducing traffic and driving styles here makes the trains and boats and walking much more appealing to me.
I try to keep myself open to as many subjects as possible whether it be people, places or things.  I do enjoy photographing people as there are some unique looks folks have here and in other countries in S.E.A.  People are much more approachable here than in the US where they don’t have time to stop for you or are just suspicious or irascible in general.
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Motorcy Taxi Drivers near BTS Stop

Bangkok Motorcy Taxi Drivers near BTS Stop

TF How has the digital age impacted your profession, both positively and negatively?

EN My lab, ACP was where I was negatively affected by the change to digital.  I had many clients up until the day I closed my doors who were trying to keep film alive, not just for it’s own sake but because it’s the way they liked to work and they preferred the look film gave them.
One day back in Chicago, I needed a cheap digital print and I uploaded the file to Walgreens, the national drug store chain, and within 15 minutes I got an email saying the print was ready at the store around the corner from me.  At that point I knew I could never compete with digital as handmade analog printing and processing takes time, and fewer and fewer people were willing to wait anymore.
I began offering drum scanning, digital-to-B&W film conversions via a 4×5 film recorder, and custom archival ink jet (digital) prints on rag paper, but even the cachet of the custom hands on printing and scanning was not enough to bring in a large volume of work as many photographers are making those prints and scans in their own studios, and others are just sending their work to Walgreens or the like as the quality isn’t that important for a lot of work.  Also the need to go to print at all, all but disappeared in advertising and commercial photography.
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Siem Reap, Cambodia

Siem Reap, Cambodia

TF What is the best photographing advice you have ever received?

Bicyclist in Cambodia

Bicyclist in Cambodia

EN Best photographic advice is my own as well, which is to keep shooting.  Whatever it is you want to shoot, whether film or digital, just keep at it.

Buddhist Funeral

Buddhist Funeral

TF Do you have any projects in the works? What is your ideal photographing assignment? Do you prefer freelance work over model shoots or is it a balance that you strive for?
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EN I have two teaching projects in their early stages right now both requiring my darkroom + digital.  The first is to teach some folks here how to do wet plate photography.  The major stumbling block I’ve run into there is the chemistry.  Shipping from my suppliers in the US is very expensive and it’s arrival is iffy at best.  One supplier told me of a shipment he made to Singapore that took 3 months to arrive.  So I’m in search of companies that have the needed chemistry here in Thailand.
The other project is to teach alternative photo printing techniques such as cyanotypes or salted paper, using negatives made with a digital printer.  These historical processes require the negative to be the size of the image you want as the negatives are printed in contact with the paper.  Working from scans or digital files to print onto overhead transparency material allows one to easily make these large negatives.
Actually still life and product shoots interest me more than model shoots as those depend heavily on the talent and support people such as hair and make up.  I enjoy model shoots for a sideline as I can do pretty much whatever I want.
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Bangkok Shophouse

Bangkok Shop House

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TF If you had not been a professional photographer, can you imagine what other profession, in the arts, you might have liked to try?

EN I’m really at a loss to think of any profession other than photography!

Bangkok photographer Eric nelson arrives at the scene of a crime ... or perhaps he was already there?

Bangkok photographer Eric Nelson ponders what other profession he might enjoy as much as photography … detective, perhaps?

TF Thank-you, Eric for sharing your pictures and thoughts on photography at Thailand Footprint. Continued success to you in the great city of Bangkok, Thailand.

EN My pleasure, Kevin. I enjoyed it.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________

You can reach Bangkok based photographer Eric Nelson at his email address: Eric Nelson <emanphoto@ameritech[dot]net for information about his photographs and services or at the links below:

Eric Nelson Photography
086 343 1612
Powerpoint Portfolio Download: http://share.cx.com/zHf94N
PDF Portfolio Download: http://share.cx.com/B9CyY6
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